About
Enzoji Temple (圓蔵寺), one of the most dramatic temples on the Aizu pilgrimage, perched on a cliff overlooking the Tadami River in Yanaizu. Source: Wikimedia Commons
The Aizu 33 Kannon Pilgrimage (会津三十三観音霊場) is a sacred circuit of 33 Buddhist temples and sites dedicated to Kannon, the Bodhisattva of Compassion, spanning 17 cities, towns, and villages across the Aizu region of Fukushima Prefecture. Established in the mid-17th century by daimyo lord Hoshina Masayuki (1611-1673), this pilgrimage represents a profound integration of spiritual devotion, regional economics, and Buddhist culture that continues to attract pilgrims and tourists today. 🔗
The pilgrimage was designated a Japan Heritage site in 2016, recognizing its deep cultural and historical significance as "Aizu historical culture experienced through pilgrimage." 🔗
Cultural & Historical Significance
Historical Foundation
Aizu has been "a center of Buddhist culture" in the Tohoku region since the Heian period (794-1185), when the influential monk Tokuitsu established Enichi-ji Temple and skillfully integrated local folk beliefs with mainstream Buddhist teachings, particularly the worship of Yakushi (the Medicine Buddha) and Kannon. 🔗
The formal pilgrimage circuit was established around 1643 (Kan'ei 20) by Hoshina Masayuki, the first daimyo of the Aizu domain. His motivations were both spiritual and economic: he was inspired by the famous Saigoku 33 Kannon Pilgrimage, which had existed for approximately 1,300 years across seven prefectures in the Kansai region. However, Masayuki noticed that Aizu residents traveling to the Saigoku pilgrimage "were away for up to two months, causing money to flow out of Aizu." 🔗
By creating a localized 33-site route within Aizu and improving roads and lodging, Masayuki retained economic activity while promoting spiritual practice. The pilgrimage became widespread as "a means for socializing and seeking pleasure for the people within the domain," transforming into one of the few opportunities for common people, especially in rural areas, to travel, socialize, and sightsee. 🔗
Religious Significance of the Number 33
The number 33 holds profound symbolic meaning in Buddhist tradition, as "Kannon can change into 33 different forms" to save all sentient beings from suffering. This belief is the foundation for the 33-site structure of the pilgrimage. 🔗
The images along the Aizu pilgrimage route vary greatly in scale and setting, "ranging from solitary stone sculptures to statues housed in temples that are designated National Treasures." This diversity reflects both the historical depth of Buddhist practice in Aizu and the varying resources of communities along the route. 🔗
The Korori Kannon Tradition
Within the Aizu pilgrimage tradition is the particular veneration of the "Aizu Korori San Kannon" (会津ころり三観音), or the "Three Korori Kannon of Aizu." The word "korori" (ころり) in this context implies a quick, painless death, free from prolonged suffering—a desirable end of life in Japanese culture. This is expressed in the Japanese phrase "pin-pin korori," meaning to be fine ('pin-pin') just before you die, and when you die, to die lightly ('korori'). 🔗
The three famous "Korori Kannon" temples are:
- Nakata Kannon (中田観音/Hongō Kannon-dō), Temple #30 on the pilgrimage
- Tachiki Kannon (立木観音/Eryū-ji Temple), Temple #31 on the pilgrimage
- Torioi Kannon (鳥追観音/Nyohō-ji Temple), listed as the 3rd extra temple (bangai) of the circuit
It is believed that visiting these three temples can "eliminate the three poisons of the heart (attachment, aversion, and delusion) through the bodhisattva's mercy and bring one a peaceful heart, health and longevity, and eventually a peaceful death." If you receive the goshuin (temple seal) at all three locations, it is thought that you will receive the blessing of longevity and health. 🔗
Connection to Aizu Samurai Heritage
The pilgrimage is deeply intertwined with Aizu's identity as the "land of the last samurai." The establishment by daimyo Hoshina Masayuki directly links the pilgrimage to the ruling samurai class's influence on Aizu's cultural and religious life. The samurai of Aizu, known for their martial prowess and strict code of honor (Bushido), also had a deep spiritual side. Buddhism, particularly the worship of compassionate figures like Kannon, provided a moral and spiritual foundation for the warrior class, balancing martial training with compassion and mercy.
Many temples on the route have historical connections to the Aizu clan, serving as places of prayer, patronage, and sometimes refuge during the turbulent Boshin War (1868-1869). The pilgrimage thus represents not just religious devotion but the cultural identity forged through Aizu's samurai history of loyalty and resilience.
Notable Temples and Special Features
Sazaedo Temple (Entsu Sansodo) - Iimoriyama Hill, Aizuwakamatsu
Located on Iimoriyama Hill in Aizuwakamatsu, Sazaedo Temple is a unique architectural marvel that offers a condensed pilgrimage experience. Completed in 1796 by monk Ikudo, the chief priest of Shousouji Temple, this 16.5-meter-high, three-storied hexagonal wooden hall features an unusual double-helix spiral structure—the only known temple in Japan with this design and the only double-helix wooden structure in the world. 🔗
The temple's official name is Entsu Sanso (lit., "circle three times"), referring to the fact that visitors complete one and a half circuits to reach the top, and the same on the way down, all on a ramp-like walkway with no floors or stairs. Visitors never pass anyone coming the other way. 🔗
Ikudo chose this distinctive design to create a convenient way for worshippers to complete a small-scale version of the Saigoku 33 Kannon Pilgrimage. He had 33 statues of Kannon installed throughout Sazaedo, allowing visitors to pay their respects at each one as they moved along the walkway, thus completing the pilgrimage in a matter of minutes. The Kannon statues seen today are replicas installed after the temple's 1890 reconstruction. 🔗
The temple's walls and ceilings are covered with colorful paper stickers called senjafuda, which pilgrims customarily placed on shrines and temples as proof of their visit. It was designated an Important Cultural Property in 1996. 🔗
Hours: April to Nov.: 8:15 AM - sunset | Dec. to March: 9:00 AM - 4:00 PM Admission: ¥400 adults, ¥300 students (16+), ¥200 children (7+) Location: View on Google Maps
Eryuji Temple - Tachiki Kannon (#31)
Eryuji Temple is an ancient temple said to have been built around 1200 and serves as the 31st temple on the pilgrimage route. The temple houses one of the most impressive Kannon statues in Japan: a massive standing statue of the Eleven-faced Thousand-armed Kannon (Juichimen Senju Kannon) that stands 8.5 meters tall. 🔗
According to legend, this statue was carved as a standing tree by the Buddhist monk Kobo Daishi in 808, carved out of one single tree in response to an oracle. Both the Kannon Hall and the wooden standing statue are designated as National Important Cultural Properties. 🔗
As one of the three Korori Kannon, Tachiki Kannon is particularly popular among pilgrims praying for a peaceful death and longevity.
Location: View on Google Maps
Nakata Kannon - Hongō Kannon-dō (#30)
Temple #30 on the pilgrimage circuit, Nakata Kannon (also known as Koan-ji Temple) holds special significance as one of the three Korori Kannon and for its connection to bacteriologist Dr. Hideyo Noguchi. The main image is a two-meter-tall copper statue of the eleven-faced Kannon with realistic representations, designated as a National Important Cultural Property along with its flanking statues. 🔗
The temple is famous for its connection to Shika, mother of Dr. Hideyo Noguchi. Shika was a devout follower of this temple and is said to have prayed here for her son's burns to be healed and for his social success, visiting the temple all day on the 17th of each month. These stories are preserved in the temple with a photo of mother and son visiting together. A statue of Hideyo Noguchi faces the direction of the Nakada Kannon, commemorating his mother's devotion. 🔗
Location: View on Google Maps
Sakudari Kannon (#21)
Sakudari Kannon is the 21st of Aizu's 33 Kannon pilgrimage sites, located at Rinzaishu Sakudariyama Kannon-ji Temple. This splendid three-story structure was built by cutting into the stone on a mountainside, creating a dramatic clifftop setting similar to Kyoto's famous Kiyomizu-dera. 🔗
The hall is thought to have been built by the monk Tokuitsu in 830, and it stands at an altitude of 380 meters, wedged against a rock face. From the edge of the veranda, visitors can view Mount Bandai and the Okawa River below. The stone statue of Kubinashi Kannon ("Headless Kannon") is enshrined within. 🔗
Location: View on Google Maps
Enzoji Temple - Yanaizu Kannon (Bangai #2)
Enzoji Temple (圓蔵寺, Enzōji), also known as Rinzaishu Reigansan Enzo-ji, is one of the three extra temples (bangai) and one of the most visually dramatic sites on the pilgrimage. This 1,200-year-old temple is counted among the Three Great Kokuzo Bosatsu Temples in Japan, with the temple said to have been founded in 807 by the monk Tokuitsu. 🔗
The main hall rises high above a huge crag, overlooking the Tadami River flowing magnificently through the town of Yanaizu. The temple is designated as a National Important Cultural Property. 🔗
The temple is deeply connected to the akabeko (red cow) legend of Aizu. According to tradition, during the temple's reconstruction after a great earthquake in 1611, the people were at a loss as to how to transport timber from the river onto the big rock when a herd of red cattle appeared out of nowhere to help carry the materials. This legend led to the akabeko becoming one of Fukushima Prefecture's most famous folk crafts and a symbol of the Aizu region. 🔗
Hours: Apr. to Nov.: 6:30 AM - 5:00 PM | Dec. to Mar.: 7:00 AM - 4:30 PM (sometimes closes earlier) Admission: Free Access: 10-minute walk from Aizu-Yanaizu Station (JR Tadami Line) or 10 minutes by car from Aizubange I.C. via Route 252 Location: View on Google Maps
How to Complete the Pilgrimage
Transportation Methods
Modern pilgrims use various methods to complete the circuit, which spans over 200 kilometers across the Aizu region:
By Car (Most Common): The most practical method for covering the scattered temple locations. Model courses designed for drivers allow visiting multiple sites in a day with flexibility to access remote locations. The complete circuit would typically take multiple days or weekends.
By Organized Bus Tour: Bus tours are available, often focusing on the most famous temples or specific geographic clusters like the Korori Three Kannon. These offer convenience for those without a car and often include cultural context from guides.
On Foot (Traditional): While completing the entire 200km+ route on foot is a major undertaking requiring weeks, walking sections of the pilgrimage is rewarding. Some temples, particularly those in mountainous areas, have dedicated walking paths lined with stone markers, preserving the traditional pilgrimage atmosphere.
Partial Routes (Most Common for Tourists): Most visitors, especially short-term tourists, do not complete the entire circuit at once. It is very common and perfectly acceptable to visit a selection of temples based on interest, location, or specific themes like the Korori Three Kannon or temples around Aizuwakamatsu city.
Typical Duration
- Full Circuit: Multiple weeks on foot; several weekends or a week by car
- Day Trip: Can cover 3-5 temples in the Aizuwakamatsu area or focus on the Korori Three Kannon
- 2-Day/1-Night Trip: Allows relaxed exploration of major temples, scenic areas, and hot spring towns
Model courses are available on the official website at aizu33.jp/en/, including options for 1-day trips, overnight stays, and themed routes focusing on specific temple clusters or combining pilgrimage with cultural sites like Ouchi-juku. 🔗
Goshuin Collection (Temple Stamps)
Goshuincho (Stamp Books)
A traditional and meaningful way to participate in the pilgrimage is collecting goshuin (御朱印), calligraphic seal stamps, in a special book called a goshuincho (御朱印帳) or nōkyōchō (納経帳). Each stamp is unique to the temple and is brushed by a monk or temple staff, serving as both proof of pilgrimage and a spiritual souvenir.
Dedicated Aizu 33 Kannon Goshuincho:
- The dedicated stamp book for the Aizu 33 Kannon Pilgrimage is sold at Tachiki Kannon (Temple #31)
- A special goshuincho for the Korori Three Kannon can be received for free at Nakata Kannon, Torioi Kannon, and Tachiki Kannon
- A locally designed book based on the 350-year-old "Aizu-gata" dying fabric tradition is made by Aizu artisans
Costs:
- Goshuincho books: Generally ¥1,200-2,000
- Individual goshuin stamps: Typically ¥300-500 per temple, though major cultural sites may charge up to ¥1,000
Important Notes:
- Some smaller sites may not have staff present; you may need to visit a nearby administrative temple or private residence to receive the stamp
- Always contact the temple before visiting to confirm where and when you can receive goshuin
- It is customary to make a small offering (usually 5 or 50 yen) at the main hall and offer a prayer before requesting a stamp
Visitor Experience and Etiquette
Cultural Etiquette
Approach and Conduct:
- Approach temples with a calm and respectful demeanor—these are active places of worship
- Remove hats when entering temple buildings
- Speak quietly and avoid disturbing worshippers
Photography:
- Photography is generally prohibited inside temple buildings, especially of main objects of worship
- Always check for signs before taking photos
- Exterior and grounds photography is usually permitted
Offerings and Prayer:
- Make a small offering (5 or 50 yen coin) at the main hall before praying
- Bow before and after your offering and prayer
Attire:
- Wear comfortable walking shoes—many temples require walking up hills or on unpaved paths
- Dress modestly and appropriately for religious sites
Safety in Mountain Areas:
- Be aware of wildlife, including bears, in mountainous temple areas
- Carrying a bear bell is a common precaution for remote temples
What Visitors Can Expect
The pilgrimage offers diverse experiences across varying landscapes and temple types:
- Architectural Variety: From simple stone Kannon carvings on mountain paths to grand temple halls with National Treasure statues
- Natural Beauty: Temples situated in dramatic settings—cliff faces, river valleys, mountain forests
- Cultural Immersion: Experience traditional pilgrimage practices alongside local Japanese pilgrims
- Spiritual Atmosphere: Quiet contemplation in ancient temple grounds, the sound of prayer bells, incense
- Local Communities: Small temple towns and villages preserving traditional ways of life
- Seasonal Beauty: Cherry blossoms in spring, lush greenery in summer, spectacular autumn foliage, serene snow-covered landscapes in winter
Meaningful Participation for Short-Term Tourists
Short-term tourists can absolutely have a meaningful pilgrimage experience without completing the full circuit:
Recommended Approaches:
- Focus on Aizuwakamatsu Area: Visit Sazaedo Temple, combine with Tsuruga Castle and Iimoriyama Hill historical sites
- Korori Three Kannon Route: Dedicate a day or two to the three temples associated with peaceful death and longevity
- Select by Interest: Choose temples with special architecture (Sakudari, Sazaedo), cultural connections (Nakata), or dramatic settings (Enzoji)
- Combine with Other Attractions: Integrate temple visits with Ouchi-juku post town, Aizu sake breweries, or hot spring resorts
Practical Visiting Tips
Seasonal Considerations
Aizu experiences four distinct seasons, each offering different pilgrimage experiences:
Spring (April-May) - Highly Recommended:
- Cherry blossoms bloom from mid-April, creating stunning scenery at temples and surrounding areas
- Pleasant weather ideal for walking and driving
- Temples like Enzoji are particularly beautiful with spring flowers
- Moderate crowds and comfortable temperatures
Summer (June-August):
- Lush green landscapes and mountain temple settings
- June can be rainy (tsuyu/rainy season)
- August can be hot and humid in basin areas
- Higher altitude temples offer cooler escapes
Autumn (October-November) - Highly Recommended:
- Spectacular autumn foliage, particularly at temples in mountainous or riverside settings
- Clear, comfortable weather generally prevails
- Popular time for Japanese tourists, so expect moderate crowds
- Excellent photography conditions with colorful maple leaves
Winter (December-February) - For Experienced Winter Travelers:
- Heavy snow region—temples are beautiful and serene under snow
- Travel can be challenging; many mountain roads may be closed
- Some temples might have reduced hours or difficult access
- Best for those experienced with winter driving and prepared for cold conditions
Costs Summary
- Temple Entry: Many temples are free to enter; some larger temples or those with special treasures charge ¥300-500
- Sazaedo Temple: ¥400 adults, ¥300 students, ¥200 children
- Goshuin Stamps: ¥300-500 per temple
- Goshuincho Book: ¥1,200-2,000 (one-time purchase)
- Transportation: Varies by method—car rental, bus tours, or train/bus combinations
Recommended Base Cities
Aizuwakamatsu: Central location with best access to multiple temples, including Sazaedo; excellent accommodation, dining, and cultural sites (Tsuruga Castle, samurai residences); good public transportation connections
Yanaizu: Smaller town perfect for exploring Enzoji Temple and the western temple circuit; quieter, more traditional atmosphere; access to Okuaizu natural beauty
Resources for Planning
- Official Aizu 33 Kannon Website: aizu33.jp/en/ - Model courses, temple information, goshuin details
- Japan Heritage Site Information: Comprehensive cultural context and heritage designation details
- Local Tourism Associations: Aizu Tourism Information Centre, Yanaizu Tourism Association (☎ +81 241-42-2114)
Integration with Aizu Cultural Experiences
The pilgrimage connects naturally with other Aizu cultural attractions:
- Tsuruga Castle and Samurai Heritage: Understand the historical context of the daimyo who established the pilgrimage
- Traditional Crafts: Aizu lacquerware, Akabeko red cow dolls (connected to Enzoji Temple legend), Aizu cotton
- Sake Breweries: Several prestigious sake breweries near pilgrimage temples
- Hot Spring Resorts: Higashiyama Onsen and other spa towns offer relaxation after temple visits
- Ouchi-juku: Historic post town with traditional thatched-roof buildings, includes its own Kannon site
- Aizu Cuisine: Local specialties like Kitakata ramen, kozuyu ceremonial soup, and mountain vegetables
Important Notes for October-November Visits
For October-November 2025 visits:
- Optimal Timing: Autumn foliage will be at peak, providing exceptional beauty at mountain temples
- Weather: Generally clear and comfortable, ideal for pilgrimage activities
- Crowds: Moderate tourist presence, particularly on weekends—weekday visits recommended for quieter experience
- Accessibility: All major temples fully accessible; mountain roads open and in good condition
- Special Considerations: Book accommodations in advance, especially if visiting during autumn foliage peak
Recommended 1-Day Itinerary from Tokyo Day Trip:
- Depart Tokyo early morning (around 7:00 AM) via Tohoku Shinkansen to Koriyama, then local train to Aizuwakamatsu (3-3.5 hours)
- 10:30-11:30 AM: Visit Sazaedo Temple and Iimoriyama Hill
- 12:00-1:00 PM: Lunch in Aizuwakamatsu
- 1:30-3:00 PM: Visit one major temple (Nakata or Tachiki Kannon)
- 3:30-4:00 PM: Brief stop at Tsuruga Castle area
- 4:30 PM: Depart Aizuwakamatsu for return to Tokyo (arrive Tokyo ~8:00 PM)
This provides meaningful exposure to pilgrimage culture while respecting time constraints. For deeper experience, consider overnight stay to visit multiple temples and enjoy hot springs.
Location: View on Google Maps (Aizuwakamatsu center as reference point for pilgrimage circuit)
Source: attractions/aizuwakamatsu/aizu-33-kannon-pilgrimage.md