About
Bekko-zushi showing the characteristic amber "tortoiseshell" color from chili-soy marinade
Bekko-zushi is Izu Oshima Island's signature culinary tradition—spicy sushi made with fresh white fish marinated in island green chili pepper soy sauce. 🔗 The name derives from the lustrous amber color that develops when fresh fish slices are marinated, resembling bekko (tortoiseshell) in Japanese. 🔗
The spicy soy sauce of green chili peppers and the sweetness of fresh fish go perfectly together, with the sweetness of vinegared rice mixed with the zest of chili and umami from the fish creating a very tasty combination. 🔗 The dish is highly addictive, with taste differing depending on the shop as every establishment has its own distinct recipe. 🔗
Cultural & Historical Significance
The origin of bekko-zushi started on Izu Oshima before the Meiji Era, developed when wasabi wasn't easily accessible on the isolated island. 🔗 It represents a preservation technique invented by island predecessors to keep fish fresh in the warm Izu Islands climate without refrigeration—adding green chili pepper to soy sauce for its bactericidal effect. 🔗
In Izu Oshima, locals developed a unique technique of eating sushi after the Meiji era by pairing soy sauce with strong spicy green pepper instead of using wasabi. 🔗 When eating sashimi on Oshima, the traditional method involves crushing green pepper then dipping it in soy sauce to transfer the spiciness—this technique was acquired as a replacement for wasabi. 🔗
Every family and restaurant has their own distinct recipe passed down through generations, making each bekko-zushi experience unique to the establishment. 🔗
Ingredients & Preparation Tradition
Fish Selection: Mainly white fish such as sea bream, tuna, bonito, butterfish, and parrotfish (budai) are used. 🔗 Parrotfish is particularly prized—it has a humorous appearance and eats mainly seaweed, making its meat less odorous than most, with mild flavor and gentle springiness, best eaten in winter. 🔗
Island Chili Peppers: The key ingredient is shima tou-garashi (island chili pepper), which is thicker, shorter, and more spicy than regular chili pepper. 🔗 These island green chilies are grown locally, with some restaurants like Zakoya Kiyomaru using chilies from their own gardens. 🔗
Marinating Process: Slices of white sashimi fish are marinated in chili soy sauce for approximately 20 to 30 minutes, though timing varies by family and shop traditions. 🔗 The marinade typically includes soy sauce, mirin, sake, sugar, salt, and the region's special green chili pepper. 🔗
Where to Experience Bekko-zushi
Sushi Kou (海鮮茶屋 寿し光) - #1 Ranked
Location: 1-4-7 Motomachi, Oshima, Tokyo 100-0101 🔗
Operating Hours:
- Lunch: 11:00 AM - 3:00 PM (Last Order 2:00 PM)
- Dinner: 5:00 PM - 10:00 PM (Last Order 9:00 PM)
- Closed: Wednesdays (open on public holidays) 🔗
Contact: 04992-2-0888 🔗
Bekko-zushi Details: Shima Don (¥2,000) features bekko-zushi with white fish marinated in island chili pepper soy sauce. Original "Godzilla sushi" made with blacktail fish. 🔗
Rating: 4.0/5 on TripAdvisor, ranked #1 of 45 restaurants in Oshima-machi 🔗
Day Trip Advantage: Extended lunch hours until 3:00 PM (Last Order 2:00 PM) provide more flexibility than other options. Dinner service available for visitors taking later return ferries. Reservations accepted.
Zakoya Kiyomaru (座古屋清丸)
Location: 262-26 Motomachi Manose, Oshima-machi, Tokyo 🔗
Operating Hours:
- Lunch: 11:30 AM - 1:30 PM (Last Order 1:30 PM)
- Dinner: 5:30 PM - 8:00 PM (Last Order 8:00 PM)
- Closed: Thursdays 🔗
Contact: 04992-2-1414 🔗
Bekko-zushi Details: Bekko-don (¥1,400) featuring fresh fish from Oshima shores. Uses green chilies grown in their own garden, ensuring authentic island flavors. 🔗
Reservations: Advance booking required. Spacious facilities with parking available. 🔗
Menu Highlights: Zako Teishoku set (¥1,750) with ashitaba leaves dressed in sesame sauce, mekkari-ni (braised sea snail), tatakiage (fried minced fish). 🔗
Kāchan (かあちゃん)
Access: Just 1 minute from Motomachi Port on foot, located at a road facing the sea. 15 minutes by car from Okata Port, 10 minutes by car from Oshima airport. 🔗
Operating Hours: 11:00 AM - 2:30 PM (lunch only) 🔗
Contact: +81 4992-2-1127 🔗
Bekko-zushi Details: At Kāchan, bekko-zushi is made using budai (parrotfish). 🔗 The restaurant name Kāchan is an informal way to say 'mother' in Japanese, creating a casual, family-run atmosphere. 🔗
Day Trip Advantage: Ideal location for ferry arrivals. Strict 2:30 PM closing requires early lunch planning for day visitors.
Menu Highlights: Also serves Iso Ramen (seafood-packed miso ramen), lobster miso soup, and fresh local seafood set meals. 🔗
Minato-Sushi (港鮨)
Location: Habu Port (southern part of island) 🔗
Operating Hours:
- Lunch: 12:00 PM - 2:00 PM
- Dinner: 5:00 PM - 9:00 PM
- Closed: Tuesdays 🔗
Access: 1 minute on foot from Habu-minato bus stop, 20 minutes by car from Motomachi port, 30 minutes by car from Okata port. Located on historical street walking inland from Habu Port on the south coast. 🔗
Contact: 04992-4-0002 🔗
Atmosphere: Stately restaurant design reminiscent of a samurai residence. Considered the island's best sushi restaurant by locals. 🔗
Bekko-zushi Details: Local fish nigiri set (¥1,950) featuring 9 types of fish, bekko-zushi (¥1,750), Jizakana Sushi (¥1,750) made with white fish marinated in soy sauce after a traditional island recipe. 🔗 Fish brought in same day ensures freshness. 🔗
Reservations: STRONGLY RECOMMENDED—quite popular among both local people and visitors, so reservations definitely needed beforehand, especially weekends and holidays. 🔗
Day Trip Consideration: Located at Habu Port in southern part of island, requiring additional travel time from Motomachi/Okada ports.
Menu: Features imaginative dishes boasting local ingredients including sushi platters of local fish, marinated sushi, sashimi, and lobster tempura bowl. 🔗
Quick & Convenient Options
Izushichi-maru Shokudo (イズシチ丸食堂):
- Location: Inside port terminal 🔗
- Specialties: Salted butter ramen, bekko-zushi
- Advantage: Most convenient for ferry passengers, no reservation needed
Izanami (いざなみ):
- Type: Takeout-only specialty shop 🔗
- Specialties: Bekko-zushi for picnics or ferry dining
- Advantage: Flexible timing, can enjoy at scenic locations
The Tasting Experience
The chili pepper in the soy sauce adds a spicy zest to the fresh fish, and the spice brings out the taste of the fish. 🔗 The marinated fish develops a lustrous amber color and characteristic texture from the marinade, distinguishing it from fresh sushi. 🔗
Flavor Profile:
- Sweet vinegared rice base
- Spicy chili kick from island green peppers
- Umami depth from marinated white fish
- Gentle springiness of parrotfish (when in season)
- Balanced complexity that's highly addictive
Dining Etiquette:
- OK to eat nigiri-zushi with your hands, though chopsticks are also acceptable 🔗
- Generally eat a sushi piece in one bite 🔗
- If using soy sauce, dip the fish (neta) into shoyu, not the rice 🔗
- Eat sushi as soon as it's served for best flavor 🔗
- Ginger is a palate cleanser between orders, not a topping 🔗
Practical Visiting Tips
November Seasonal Advantages
Parrotfish Season: November is winter, making it ideal for experiencing authentic bekko-zushi with parrotfish—the traditional fish that is best eaten in winter months. 🔗 White fish varieties for bekko-zushi are seasonal, with parrotfish being particularly excellent during your visit period.
Weather Considerations: November on Oshima features moderate temperatures (17°C average, 11-13°C range) with approximately 12 rainy days expected. Carry rain gear and check weather for ferry operations.
Ordering Strategy
Useful Japanese Phrases:
- "Bekko-zushi wo kudasai" (べっこうずしをください) - "Bekko-zushi, please"
- "Osusume wa nan desu ka?" (おすすめは何ですか?) - "What do you recommend?"
- "Oishii desu" (おいしいです) - "It's delicious"
Reservation Recommendations:
- Sushi Kou: Reservations accepted (04992-2-0888). Extended lunch hours provide flexibility.
- Zakoya Kiyomaru: Advance booking required (04992-2-1414). Closed Thursdays.
- Minato-Sushi: Reservations definitely needed (04992-4-0002), especially weekends/holidays. Closed Tuesdays.
- Kāchan: Arrive early in 11:00 AM - 2:30 PM window (lunch only). No explicit reservation requirement found.
Critical Warnings: Check weekly closures before visit. Confirm arrival port (Motomachi vs. Okata, decided daily by weather) impacts restaurant accessibility. Make reservations 1-2 weeks in advance for November 9-18 visit. 🔗
Avoid peak lunch rush (12:00 PM - 1:00 PM) if visiting without reservations.
Payment & Logistics
Cash Recommended: Many local island restaurants operate on cash basis. Carry sufficient Japanese yen.
Pricing Guide:
- Bekko-zushi at Minato-Sushi: ¥1,750
- Bekko-don set at Zakoya Kiyomaru: ¥1,400
- Kāchan: Pricing not specified but serves set meals with seafood
Day Trip Integration
Transportation: Rental car strongly recommended for Oshima exploration and accessing different bekko-zushi restaurants. Restaurants are spread between Motomachi Port area (Kāchan, Zakoya Kiyomaru) and Habu Port area (Minato-Sushi)—approximately 20-30 minutes driving distance.
Suggested Strategy (Day Trip Context):
Option 1 - Early Arrival Lunch (Recommended):
- Depart Tokyo Takeshiba 8:00 AM jetfoil
- Arrive Oshima ~10:00 AM
- Morning sightseeing until 11:30 AM - 12:00 PM
- Lunch at Sushi Kou (extended hours, 11:00 AM-3:00 PM LO 2:00 PM) or Zakoya Kiyomaru (11:30 AM-1:30 PM LO, requires reservation)
- Afternoon: Explore Mt. Mihara, Oshima Park
- Evening return ferry/flight 🔗
Advantages: Aligns with most restaurant hours, allows full afternoon for sightseeing
Option 2 - Port Terminal Quick Option:
- Izushichi-maru Shokudo inside port terminal—immediate access upon ferry arrival, no reservation needed
- Quick service allows maximum sightseeing time
- Consideration: May have limited seating, potentially crowded with ferry passengers 🔗
Option 3 - Dinner Strategy (Later Return Ferry):
- Morning arrival, full day sightseeing
- Dinner 5:30 PM - 7:30 PM at Sushi Kou (5:00 PM-10:00 PM LO 9:00 PM) or Zakoya Kiyomaru (5:30 PM-8:00 PM LO 8:00 PM)
- Late evening ferry return
- Requires confirming return ferry schedule, may be tiring after full day
Option 4 - Takeout Strategy:
- Izanami takeout shop for bekko-zushi picnic at scenic locations
- Maximum flexibility in timing, no reservation needed
- Can enjoy bekko-zushi at Mt. Mihara, beaches, or on ferry return 🔗
Nearby Oshima Attractions
Bekko-zushi dining combines naturally with:
- Mt. Mihara volcanic crater hiking
- Oshima Park camellia gardens (autumn/winter blooms)
- Motomachi Port area exploration
- Habu Port coastal views
- Island hot springs (Hama-no-Yu onsen)
Important Notes
- Limited Operating Hours: Most restaurants close by 8:00 PM, Kāchan operates lunch-only
- Thursday Closure: Zakoya Kiyomaru closed Thursdays—plan accordingly
- Ferry Schedule: Coordinate bekko-zushi dining with ferry/flight departure times from Tokyo
- Weather Preparation: November brings ~12 rainy days—carry rain gear and check weather for ferry operations
- Seasonal Fish: November offers excellent parrotfish (winter season) for authentic bekko-zushi
- Photography: Standard Japanese restaurant photography etiquette applies—generally acceptable for food photos, but avoid flash and be discreet
Location: View on Google Maps
Source: attractions/ooshima/bekko-zushi.md