About
The white torii gate entrance to Hanitsu Shrine in Inawashiro, Fukushima. Image from Wikimedia Commons, licensed under CC BY-SA 3.0
Hanitsu Shrine (εζ΄₯η₯η€Ύ, Hanitsu-jinja) is a historically significant Shinto shrine established in 1675 in Inawashiro Town, approximately 30 minutes from Aizuwakamatsu. The shrine was built to enshrine and honor Hoshina Masayuki (1611-1673), the first lord of the Aizu Domain and a pivotal figure in early Edo period politics and philosophy. π π
GPS Coordinates: 37Β°34'14.002"N, 140Β°6'2.002"E π
Hoshina Masayuki was the illegitimate son of the second Tokugawa Shogun Hidetada and half-brother to the third Shogun Iemitsu, who entrusted him with ruling the Aizu territory. Despite offers to use the Tokugawa family crest and change his surname to Matsudaira, Masayuki humbly refused out of respect for the Hoshina clan that raised him and to emphasize his loyalty to the main Tokugawa lineage. He served as regent during the minority of the fourth Shogun Tokugawa Ietsuna, effectively ruling Japan for several years. Masayuki was also a patron of Neo-Confucianism and co-wrote the famous Aizu House Code with philosopher Yamazaki Ansai, which emphasized unwavering loyalty to the Shogunβa principle that would profoundly influence the domain's future during the Boshin War. He is regarded as one of the most distinguished rulers in Japanese history for his development of commerce and agriculture in Aizu. π π
Cultural & Historical Significance
Founding of Aizu's Samurai Legacy:
Hoshina Masayuki established the Aizu House Code with Article 1 stating unequivocally: "Be Faithful to Tokugawa." This precept transformed political allegiance into a moral and almost religious obligation, creating an identity where loyalty to the Tokugawa was inseparable from honor itself. π This principle would define the Aizu Domain for generations, ultimately leading to its tragic stand during the Boshin War nearly 200 years after Masayuki's death.
Matsudaira Clan Burial Grounds:
The shrine grounds convey "a holy atmosphere that can be felt throughout the shrine precincts" with 400 years of documented history. π The site also serves as the burial ground for the Matsudaira clan lords who succeeded Hoshina Masayuki in ruling the Aizu Domain during the Edo period. The Matsudaira family gravesite at Hanitsu Shrine (Mineyama) and another site in Aizu-Wakamatsu (Innaisan) were together designated as a National Historic Site in 1987. π π
Kame-ishi Stone Monument:
One of the shrine's most remarkable features is the Kame-ishi (δΊη³, "Turtle Stone"), one of the largest stone monuments in Japan, which serves as a testament to the reverence held for the first Aizu lord. π
Autumn Foliage Heritage:
Beyond its historical significance, Hanitsu Shrine is renowned as one of Fukushima Prefecture's premier autumn foliage destinations. The grounds feature approximately a dozen Japanese maple trees (Iroha-momiji) with a special connectionβthey were transplanted from Kyoto due to the historical link with Matsudaira Katamori, the ninth lord of the Aizu Matsudaira family, who served as Kyoto Protector during the late Edo period. π During peak autumn season from late October to early November, the deciduous leaves fall like a red carpet, creating particularly photogenic scenes on the Taiko Bridge and surrounding stairs, with the bright red maple leaves standing out dramatically against the iconic white torii gate. π π
Visiting Information
Getting There:
From Aizuwakamatsu:
- By car: Approximately 30 minutes drive
- By public transport: Take JR Ban-etsu West Line to Inawashiro Station, then taxi (5 minutes) or bus
From Inawashiro Station (JR Ban-etsu West Line):
- By taxi: Approximately 10 minutes to the shrine π
- By bus: Take Bandai Toto Bus from Inawashiro Station to "Kukenchokado" or Bus Center stop (about 7 minutes), then walk approximately 18-19 minutes π
From Inawashiro-Bandai Kogen IC (Ban-etsu Expressway):
- By car: Approximately 10 minutes π
Parking:
- Town-operated parking with approximately 50 spaces
- Additional temporary parking available during peak autumn foliage season
Hours:
- Regular season: 8:00 AM - 5:00 PM daily π
- Alternative source indicates: 10:00 AM - 4:00 PM π
- Grounds accessible year-round
- Evening illuminations during autumn foliage season (mid-October to mid-November)
Admission: Free entry π π
Best Time to Visit:
- Autumn foliage peak: Late October to early November (ideal for visit dates Oct 21-23 or Nov 9-18) π
- Evening illuminations: Mid-October to mid-November, offering magical evening lighting of the maple trees and white torii gate π
- Year-round: The shrine maintains its spiritual and historical significance in all seasons
Contact:
- Inawashiro Tourism Association: +81 (242) 62-2048 π
- Official website: https://hanitsujinja.jp/ (Japanese) π
Full Address: Aza Mineyama 1, Inawashiro-machi, Yama-gun, Fukushima Prefecture (η¦ε³ΆηθΆιΊ»ι‘ηͺθ代ηΊεθ¦η₯’ε±±1) π
The Shrine Experience
Main Shrine Buildings and Worship:
The shrine follows traditional Shinto architecture with the main hall (honden) where Hoshina Masayuki is enshrined. Visitors can experience authentic Shinto worship practices at this historically significant site. The grounds maintain a sacred atmosphere that reflects 400 years of continuous religious practice. π
The Iconic White Torii Gate:
The shrine's entrance features a striking large white torii gate that serves as both a spiritual boundary marker and a photographic landmark. During autumn, the white torii creates a stunning contrast with the vibrant red maple leaves, making it one of the most photographed spots at the shrine. π
Kame-ishi Stone Monument:
One of the largest stone monuments in Japan, the Kame-ishi (Turtle Stone) represents an extraordinary feat of craftsmanship and devotion to the first Aizu lord. This massive monument is a must-see feature of the shrine grounds. π
Matsudaira Clan Burial Grounds:
The National Historic Site-designated graveyard contains the tombs of the Matsudaira clan lords who ruled Aizu Domain throughout the Edo period. These burial grounds offer profound insight into the continuity of samurai leadership and the reverence for ancestral lineage in Japanese culture. π
Autumn Foliage Experience:
The shrine features approximately a dozen Japanese maple trees with Kyoto origins that create spectacular autumn displays. The fallen leaves carpet the ground in brilliant red, particularly around the Taiko Bridge and stone stairs leading to the shrine. Visitors can freely wander the "maple leaf garden" on the slope beside the main staircase, experiencing an immersive natural art installation. π
Evening Illuminations (Seasonal):
During the autumn foliage season (mid-October to mid-November), the shrine hosts special evening illuminations. The combination of lit maple trees, fallen leaf carpets, and the white torii gate creates a magical, otherworldly atmosphere perfect for photography and contemplative visits. The most popular illuminated spot is the bridge at the entrance, where red maples frame the white torii gate. π
Practical Visiting Tips
Seasonal Considerations for October-November:
For October 21-23 Visit:
- Early autumn foliage seasonβcolors may be approaching peak but might not be fully developed
- Evening illuminations should be active (mid-October start)
- Generally less crowded than peak season
- Weather: Cool autumn temperatures, bring layers
- Photography: Earlier sunset times require planning for illumination shots
For November 9-18 Visit:
- Likely peak to late autumn foliage period
- Best color display expected during this timeframe
- Evening illuminations still active (through mid-November)
- Higher visitor numbers expected, especially weekends
- Some fallen leaves creating "red carpet" effect
- Weather: Colder temperatures, potential for frost enhancing colors
Best Photo Spots:
- Bridge entrance with white torii: Classic composition capturing the contrast between white gate and red maples π
- Stone staircase from below: Looking up through the maple canopy
- Fallen leaf carpets: Ground-level shots of the red carpet effect
- Evening illuminations: White torii and red maples under magical lighting
- Kame-ishi monument: Historical context and impressive scale
Photography Conditions and Lighting:
Best Photography Times:
- Morning (8:00-10:00 AM): Soft light illuminating the white torii and maple trees, fewer visitors
- Late afternoon (3:00-5:00 PM): Golden hour lighting creating warm tones on autumn leaves
- Evening (after sunset during illumination period): Magical lit scenes of maples and torii gate
Crowd Avoidance Strategies:
- Visit on weekdays during autumn season if possible
- Early morning visits (8:00-9:00 AM) offer solitude for contemplation and photography
- Peak weekend crowds expected late October through early November
- Evening illuminations attract photographers but offer unique atmosphere worth experiencing
- Arrive early for parking during peak foliage season due to limited spaces
Money-Saving Options:
- Free admission to shrine grounds π
- No reservation fees required
- Parking at town facility appears to be free or low-cost
- Combine with other free Lake Inawashiro attractions to maximize day trip value
Local Etiquette and Shrine Customs:
Proper Shrine Visiting Etiquette:
- Bow before entering: Stop and bow before passing through the torii gate π
- Walk on the sides: Avoid the center of the approach path, which is reserved for deities π
- Purification ritual (temizuya):
- Take the ladle with your right hand and rinse your left hand
- Switch hands and rinse your right hand
- Cup water in your left hand and rinse your mouth (do not drink directly from ladle)
- Spit water beside the fountain (do not swallow)
- Rinse the ladle handle by tilting it vertically π
- Prayer ritual at main shrine (ni-rei, ni-hakushu, ichi-rei):
- Toss a coin into the offering box
- Bow deeply twice
- Clap twice (right hand slightly offset)
- Press palms together and pray silently
- Bow deeply once more π
Photography Guidelines:
- Photography generally permitted in outdoor areas
- Avoid photographing inside shrine buildings without permission
- Be respectful of worshippers and ceremonies
- Tripods may be restricted during crowded periods π
Respectful Behavior:
- Dress appropriately (no strict code, but avoid beach or athletic wear)
- Speak quietly on shrine grounds
- Do not visit if ill or injured (traditional purity concerns)
- Remove hats when praying π
Weather and Seasonal Preparation:
Clothing for October-November:
- Layers essential: Morning and evening temperatures significantly cooler
- Comfortable walking shoes: Stone paths and stairs throughout grounds
- Rain gear: November can be wet; umbrella recommended
- Evening visits: Warm jacket for illumination viewing
Photography Equipment:
- Tripod useful for evening illumination shots (check restrictions during peak crowds)
- Wide-angle lens for torii gate compositions
- Macro lens for fallen leaf details
- Extra batteries: Cold weather drains power faster
Nearby Attractions
Lake Inawashiro Region:
- Lake Inawashiro: Japan's fourth-largest lake, approximately 10 minutes by car, offering scenic views of Mount Bandai π
- Aizu-Wakamatsu: Historic samurai city, approximately 30 minutes away, featuring Tsuruga Castle and other samurai heritage sites π
- Bandai-Asahi National Park: Scenic highland area with hiking and natural beauty
- Other Lake Inawashiro attractions: Within the day trip itinerary from Aizuwakamatsu
Integration with Aizuwakamatsu:
Hanitsu Shrine serves as an essential cultural complement to Aizuwakamatsu's samurai heritage sites. While Aizuwakamatsu showcases the later history of the Aizu Domain (particularly the Boshin War era), Hanitsu Shrine provides context for the domain's founding and the philosophical principles established by Hoshina Masayuki that shaped Aizu's fierce loyalty to the Tokugawa shogunate. The shrine's location in the Lake Inawashiro region makes it an ideal afternoon or evening stop during a day trip from Aizuwakamatsu, combining historical education with natural beauty. π
The shrine's significance resonates throughout Aizu historyβMasayuki's Aizu House Code, co-written with Yamazaki Ansai, directly influenced the domain's unwavering loyalty that would lead to the tragic Boshin War in 1868, nearly 200 years after his death. Visiting both Hanitsu Shrine and Aizuwakamatsu's war memorials provides comprehensive understanding of the samurai spirit that defined this remarkable region. π
Recommended Timing Within Itinerary:
- Best as afternoon/evening trip: Visit in late afternoon to experience both daylight autumn colors and evening illuminations
- Combine with Lake Inawashiro attractions: Part of a broader Lake Inawashiro region day trip
- Duration: Allow 1-1.5 hours for shrine visit, longer if photographing illuminations
- Weather-dependent: Autumn foliage quality varies by year; monitor local reports
Location: View on Google Maps
Source: attractions/aizuwakamatsu/hanitsu-shrine.md