Honmyo-ji Temple

About

The Jōchibyō mausoleum housing Kato Kiyomasa's grave at the top of the 176 stone steps. Photo from Wikimedia Commons.

Honmyo-ji Temple (本妙寺) is the most high-ranking Nichiren Buddhist temple in Kyushu, founded in 1585 by the legendary daimyo Kato Kiyomasa in memory of his father, Kato Kiyotada. The temple's significance extends beyond its religious importance - it stands as a memorial to one of Japan's greatest castle builders and civil engineers, with the mausoleum strategically positioned at the same elevation as Kumamoto Castle's main keep. 🔗 🔗

Originally constructed in Osaka in 1585, Honmyo-ji was relocated to Kumamoto Castle grounds during Kato Kiyomasa's reign as daimyo of Kumamoto. Following his death in 1611, the temple was moved to its current hillside location in 1614-1616, establishing a commanding position overlooking the city and castle. 🔗

The temple's architectural history reflects the turbulent nature of Japanese history - the original structures were destroyed during the Satsuma Rebellion of 1877, with the present buildings dating from 1884. However, the most striking feature is the imposing Niomon gate, built in 1920 using reinforced concrete (a novel material in Japan at the time) and now registered as a National Tangible Cultural Property. 🔗 🔗

Cultural & Religious Significance

The temple's centerpiece is the grave of Kato Kiyomasa, reached via the famous "Munatsuki Gangi" - the "Feel-it-in-your-chest steps" - consisting of 176 stone steps flanked by a central strip containing 400-500 stone lanterns. This dramatic ascent can be seen as a pilgrimage or purification ritual, with the physical exertion preparing visitors for the sacred space of the Jōchibyō mausoleum at the summit. The mausoleum's elevation was intentionally designed to match that of Kumamoto Castle's main keep, symbolically reflecting Kiyomasa's enduring power and connection to his greatest architectural achievement. 🔗

The grave site houses not only Kiyomasa's tomb but also those of his two most loyal retainers, who committed ritual suicide (junshi) at his death - a testament to the feudal bonds of the samurai era. The hundreds of stone lanterns lining the path represent offerings to Buddha, their light symbolizing Buddhist teachings dispelling the darkness of ignorance.

Visiting Information

Getting There

By Tram: Exit at Honmyo-ji Iriguchi tram stop, approximately 10-15 minute walk due west to the temple entrance. The approach leads through a somewhat industrial suburban area before reaching the impressive Niomon gate marking the temple grounds. 🔗 🔗

By Bus: Exit at Honmyoji Dentei Mae bus stop, approximately 10-minute walk to the temple entrance. 🔗

By Taxi: Request "Honmyo-ji" (本妙寺) for drop-off at the base of the Munatsuki Gangi steps, or request "Jōchibyō" (浄池廟) for drop-off near the mausoleum at the top, avoiding the 176-step climb. 🔗

From Kumamoto Castle: The temple is located northwest of the castle, "a little bit of a walk" through city streets. Allow 20-25 minutes for walking. 🔗

Practical Details

Hours:

• Temple Grounds: 6:00 AM - 5:00 PM daily
• Kato Kiyomasa Memorial Museum: 9:00 AM - 4:30 PM on weekends and public holidays only (currently closed indefinitely) 🔗 🔗

Admission:

• Temple Grounds: Free admission
• Museum (when reopened): Adults ¥330, Students ¥200, Children ¥100 (group discounts available for 20+ people) 🔗

Best Time to Visit:

• Season: Mid-to-late November for autumn foliage (peak colors on the hillside slopes)
• Time of Day: Early morning (6:00-9:00 AM) for quiet contemplation and fewer crowds; evening offers atmospheric lighting
• Weather: Clear days provide panoramic views of Kumamoto Castle and the city from the mausoleum 🔗

Typical Duration: 1-2 hours for a complete visit, including the climb to the mausoleum, exploration of sub-temples, and time for photography and reflection. 🔗

Current Status: The temple grounds and main structures are fully accessible. The Kato Kiyomasa Memorial Museum remains closed indefinitely (likely due to 2016 earthquake damage), though this does not affect access to the main temple complex or Kiyomasa's grave. Some stone lanterns may show earthquake damage but the path itself is safe. 🔗

Facilities:

• Free parking (6 car spaces, 4 bus spaces)
• Wheelchair accessible with assistance
• Accessible restroom nearby
• Benches near main hall for rest during hot or rainy weather
• Temple shop (note: may have limited staffing due to low visitor numbers) 🔗 🔗

Contact: +81 96-354-1411 | Website: honmyouji.jp 🔗

The Temple Experience

The Niomon Gate: Begin your visit at the imposing reinforced concrete gate built in 1920, a registered National Tangible Cultural Property displaying subtle grey and blue tones. This architectural landmark represents an innovative use of modern materials in traditional Japanese temple architecture. 🔗 🔗

Temple Complex Exploration: Beyond the main gate, a straight road lined with 12 smaller subsidiary temples (tatchū) leads to the main Honmyo-ji temple building. Each smaller temple features its own garden and altar, creating opportunities for quiet contemplation. The well-maintained Japanese gardens display seasonal plants and flowers throughout the year. 🔗 🔗

Main Hall: Visitors are free to enter the main hall, rebuilt in 1884 following the Satsuma Rebellion destruction. The temple square offers a notably peaceful atmosphere, with the covered hall providing refuge during inclement weather while maintaining views of the grounds. 🔗 🔗

Munatsuki Gangi - The 176 Stone Steps: The temple's most famous feature is the steep staircase known as "Feel-it-in-your-chest steps," consisting of 176 stone steps with a central strip containing 400-500 stone lanterns. The ascent represents a physical pilgrimage, with the effort required preparing visitors spiritually for the sacred space above. The stone lanterns, offerings to Buddha, create a dramatic corridor of light symbolizing Buddhist teachings. 🔗

Jōchibyō - Kato Kiyomasa's Mausoleum: At the summit of the stone steps stands the mausoleum housing the grave of Kato Kiyomasa and his two loyal retainers who committed ritual suicide at his death. The structure was deliberately built at the same elevation as Kumamoto Castle's main keep, creating a symbolic connection between Kiyomasa's resting place and his greatest architectural achievement. On clear days, the panoramic views encompass Kumamoto City and the castle across the cityscape. 🔗 🔗

Kato Kiyomasa Statue: A further 300 steps up the mountain from the mausoleum stands a towering statue of Kato Kiyomasa erected in 1960, positioned even higher on the hillside for commanding views. 🔗

Memorial Museum (Currently Closed): When operational, the museum displays Kato Kiyomasa's personal items including his famous tall battle helmet (kabuto), crowns, and various artifacts. The collection is only open on weekends and holidays from 9:00 AM - 4:30 PM, but remains closed indefinitely following the 2016 earthquake. 🔗 🔗

Practical Visiting Tips

November 2025 Seasonal Considerations

Autumn Foliage: Mid-to-late November represents the peak autumn foliage season in Kumamoto, with the temple's long slopes flanked by trees creating spectacular displays of red and gold. The hillside location enhances the foliage experience, offering layered views of colored leaves against the city backdrop. 🔗

Weather Conditions: November in Kumamoto features pleasant, cool temperatures ideal for the physical exertion of climbing the 176 stone steps and exploring the hillside grounds. Expect daytime temperatures around 15-18°C (59-64°F), with crisp mornings perfect for early visits.

Crowd Levels: The temple maintains a peaceful atmosphere year-round, described as "well off the beaten track" even during tourist season. Weekdays see particularly few visitors, with locals using the grounds for jogging and peaceful walks. November visitors can expect quiet contemplation with minimal crowds. 🔗

Photography Conditions: November's clear autumn days provide excellent natural lighting for photography, particularly morning light illuminating the stone steps and lanterns. The autumn foliage adds vibrant color to compositions featuring the temple buildings, pathways, and city views. Late afternoon offers golden hour lighting for the westward views from the mausoleum.

Physical Preparation & Visitor Strategy

Physical Preparation: The 176 stone steps represent a moderately strenuous climb, particularly for those unaccustomed to stairs. The local name "Feel-it-in-your-chest steps" accurately describes the exertion required. Take breaks as needed - the ascent is part of the spiritual experience. Those unable to climb can take a taxi to "Jōchibyō" for drop-off near the mausoleum. 🔗

Best Photo Spots:

• The Niomon gate from the approach road for architectural photography
• Looking up the Munatsuki Gangi staircase with hundreds of stone lanterns creating a dramatic perspective
• From the mausoleum looking back toward Kumamoto Castle for panoramic city views
• Sub-temple gardens along the main approach for intimate autumn foliage compositions
• The Kato Kiyomasa statue against autumn sky from the upper hillside

Visit Timing Strategy: Allocate 1-2 hours for a complete experience. Start early to enjoy morning light and quiet atmosphere, spending 20-30 minutes exploring the approach temples, 20 minutes in the main hall area, 15-20 minutes climbing the steps (with photo stops), and 30-40 minutes at the mausoleum and upper statue area.

Crowd Avoidance: Visit on weekdays for the quietest experience. Early morning (6:00-9:00 AM) offers solitude and cooler temperatures for the stair climb. The temple sees very few international tourists and maintains a local, contemplative atmosphere even during peak seasons.

Weather Preparation for November:

• Bring layers for cool morning temperatures and warmer midday conditions
• Comfortable, grippy shoes essential for the steep stone steps (avoid smooth-soled shoes)
• Consider bringing walking stick for knee support during descent
• Pack rain gear as November can see occasional showers
• Sun protection for clear days (hat, sunscreen) as much of the hillside is exposed

Cultural Etiquette

Temple Entrance: Bow once before passing through the main gate; avoid stepping on raised thresholds

Purification: Use the chōzuya (water basin) to rinse left hand, then right hand, then pour water into cupped left hand to rinse mouth (never drink directly from the ladle)

Prayer at Main Hall: Toss a coin into the offering box, bow twice, press palms together in prayer, bow once (note: unlike Shinto shrines, do NOT clap)

Incense Offering: Light incense bundles, extinguish by waving (not blowing), place in the large burner, waft smoke toward yourself for healing properties

Photography: Permitted outdoors on temple grounds; prohibited inside temple buildings and the main hall. Always respect worshippers and avoid photographing people without permission

Silence and Respect: Maintain a calm, respectful demeanor throughout the grounds, particularly near the mausoleum

Accessibility & Practical Considerations

Accessibility Considerations: While wheelchair access is available with assistance, the 176 stone steps represent a significant barrier. Those with mobility limitations should contact the temple in advance (+81 96-354-1411) to arrange taxi access to the upper mausoleum area.

Money-Saving Tips:

• Temple grounds admission is completely free
• Museum entry (when reopened) costs only ¥330 for adults
• Bring a packed lunch for a peaceful bento experience on the temple grounds (benches available near main hall)
• Free parking available (though limited to 6 car spaces)

Important Notes:

• Museum Closure: The Kato Kiyomasa Memorial Museum remains closed indefinitely, likely due to damage from the 2016 Kumamoto earthquakes. While some stone lanterns along the Munatsuki Gangi may show earthquake damage, the main temple structures and pathway are fully accessible and safe. 🔗
• Physical Demands: The 176 stone steps require moderate fitness. Those with heart conditions, knee problems, or concerns about the climb should consider taking a taxi to the upper mausoleum area or limiting their visit to the lower temple complex.
• Limited Staffing: Some visitors have noted minimal staffing at the temple shop, reflecting the site's quiet, off-the-beaten-track character.
• Spiritual Significance: Honmyo-ji is an active religious site and the most important Nichiren Buddhist temple in Kyushu. Approach with appropriate reverence, particularly near the mausoleum and when encountering worshippers.

Location: View on Google Maps

Source: attractions/kumamoto/honmyo-ji-temple.md