About
The moss-covered Fudo Myoo statue at Hozenji Temple, completely blanketed in green moss from decades of water-splashing rituals. Photo by Ethan Doyle White, November 2019, CC BY-SA 4.0
Hozenji Temple (Hozen-ji) is a Buddhist temple of the Jodo-shu (Pure Land) sect located in Osaka's Dotonbori district, founded in 1637. 🔗 The temple is renowned for its moss-covered Fudo Myoo statue, affectionately known as "Mizukake Fudo" (water-splashing Fudo), which has become entirely covered in lush green moss due to the traditional practice of worshippers splashing water over it. 🔗
The temple is tucked away in the atmospheric Hozenji Yokocho alley, an 80-meter-long, 3-meter-wide stone-paved passageway that offers a serene escape from the neon-lit chaos of Dotonbori. 🔗 It is the only historic structure in the area to have survived the bombings of World War II. 🔗
Cultural & Religious Significance
Hozenji Temple dates back to 1637 and has developed a rich history intertwined with Osaka's merchant culture. 🔗 The area initially developed from street vendors serving audiences attending Kamigata Rakugo performances at the theater within Hozenji Temple grounds, which over time grew into today's Hozenji Yokocho. 🔗
During the Taisho period, writers like Sakunosuke Oda and Koen Hasegawa used it as the setting for their novels, making the name "Hozenji Yokocho" known nationwide. 🔗 Most of it was destroyed in the Osaka air raids at the end of the Pacific War in 1945, but remarkably, the Fudo Myoo statue survived, making it the only historic structure in the area to survive World War II bombings. 🔗
The temple pays homage to Fudo Myoo (Fudo Myo-o), one of the five Wisdom Kings in Japanese Buddhism. 🔗 Fudo Myoo means "the immovable wisdom king," because he battles evil with immovable faith and compassion, using self-control to be free from suffering. 🔗
Wielding a sword and rope, Fudo Myoo embodies the Buddhist concept of overcoming ignorance with enlightenment. 🔗 The deity serves as a guardian of Buddhism and, more specifically, the Five Wisdom Buddhas. Fudo Myo-o's cultural significance extends beyond religious devotion, deeply influencing Japanese art forms like ukiyo-e and Irezumi. 🔗
The Moss-Covered Statue Phenomenon
The moss-covered statues and warmly lit stone-paved alleys did not emerge until after World War II, when air raids burned the surrounding area except for the Fudo Myo-o statue. 🔗 The moss makes it look like this is an ancient custom, but it is said to be recent, initiated after World War II by a local woman who regularly visited the shrine. 🔗
The practice earned the statue the nickname "Mizukake" ("water splashing") Fudo. 🔗 When worshippers visit the Hozenji temple and pray to the Fudo Myo-o statue, most visitors use one of the small water buckets and splash the statue with water. Given the alleyway location (which is often quite dark), it has created optimum conditions for the moss to grow. 🔗 Many years of moisture from this practice have caused moss to cover the statue entirely, making it blanketed by a soft, green carpet of lush and vivid green thick moss. 🔗
Visiting Information
Hours: Open 24 hours a day, 7 days a week 🔗
Admission: Free entry (donations appreciated) 🔗
Access:
- Take the Midosuji or Sennichimae Subway Line to Namba Station
- Exit at Exit 14 and walk for 5 minutes to Hozenji Temple 🔗
- Alternative: 1-minute walk north from Namba Walk Exit B16 🔗
Location Context: The temple is a small but quaint temple in the warren of streets that lie between the bright neon signs of Dotonbori and the shopping malls of Namba. 🔗 The temple entrance is tucked away on a street running south from Dotonbori. 🔗
Best time to visit:
- While the temple is accessible 24/7, the best time to visit is at night when the alleyway is more atmospheric and all the lanterns are lit 🔗
- Evening visits after sunset offer the most magical atmosphere when traditional lanterns cast a warm glow on the stone-paved alley 🔗
- From 7 p.m. onwards is strongly recommended to experience the specific atmosphere 🔗
- Consider visiting earlier in the evening (6-7 PM) before it gets too crowded 🔗
The Experience
The Water-Splashing Ritual
The primary activity at Hozenji Temple is participating in the traditional water-splashing ritual on the moss-covered Fudo Myoo statue. 🔗
Ritual Procedure: There are no strict rules for the water pouring ritual. However, first-time visitors should:
- Wash their hands at the well
- Pour water over the central Fudo Myoo three times
- Pour water once each on the right and left attendants
- Pour water one more time over Fudo Myoo 🔗
Spiritual Benefits: The benefits attributed to the water-pouring ritual include:
- Healing of illnesses
- Prosperity in business
- Matchmaking and good luck 🔗
As is tradition, visitors splash the statue with water, which is said to bring good luck. 🔗 It's believed that Fudo-Myoo will grant wishes and protect one from evil. 🔗
Exploring Hozenji Yokocho Alley
The atmospheric alley surrounding the temple is an experience in itself. The alley is 80 meters long and 3 meters wide, lined with traditional restaurants, bars, and shops. 🔗
Lantern-lit Atmosphere: In the early evening hours, the calm glow from the traditional lanterns casts a warm shade of orange across the narrow alley and temple grounds. 🔗 Entering this street is like slipping 200 years back in time, especially when it is lit by lanterns in the evening. 🔗
Traditional Dining: The alley is lined with more than 60 traditional and restored shops and restaurants serving authentic Osaka dishes. 🔗 The atmosphere created by numerous lanterns offers a solemn and peaceful respite from Dotonbori's chaos. 🔗
Architectural Preservation: The area features old townscapes preserved since the Edo period, quiet stone-paved streets illuminated by traditional lanterns. 🔗 This stone-paved alley maintains its historic character with traditional wooden storefronts. 🔗
The distinctive stone pavement is one of the alley's most notable features. The Hozenji Yokocho Festival began in 1982 to commemorate the restoration of the stone pavement of the alley, which was previously paved with asphalt, by taking over the paving stones from the Nankai Railway. 🔗
Practical Visiting Tips
November Seasonal Considerations
Weather: Spring and autumn offer mild weather and pleasant temperatures, making November an ideal time to visit with comfortable conditions for exploring the outdoor alley. 🔗
Lighting Conditions: In November, sunset occurs earlier (around 5:00-5:30 PM), meaning the atmospheric lantern lighting begins earlier in the evening - perfect for evening photography and dining experiences. 🔗
Crowd Management: Avoid midday during weekends when it can be crowded. 🔗 This spot is popular with social media enthusiasts and can get really crowded. 🔗 Consider early evening visits (6-7 PM) before late-night crowds arrive. 🔗
Photography Timing: November's cooler autumn air creates atmospheric mist in the evening, enhancing the mystical quality of lantern-lit photography. The narrowness of the lanes, the glowing lanterns, traditional shop fronts, and especially the moss-covered Mizukake Fudo statue are key photo spots. 🔗
Photography Tips
Best Time: The best time for photography is in the evening, after sunset, when traditional lanterns are lit, casting a warm glow on the stone-paved alley, creating a magical and atmospheric scene. 🔗
Equipment: Be prepared for low-light conditions and consider bringing a tripod for the best results. 🔗 It can be challenging due to low light, but a tripod can be very helpful for sharper images.
Key Subjects:
- The narrowness of the lanes
- The glowing lanterns
- Traditional shop fronts
- The moss-covered Mizukake Fudo statue 🔗
Atmospheric Opportunities: The atmospheric charm makes it a dream destination for photographers, with the narrow, stone-paved alley illuminated by traditional lanterns in the evening offering incredible opportunities for capturing evocative night shots. 🔗
Cultural Etiquette
Temple Behavior:
- Visitors are encouraged to show respect by remaining quiet within the temple grounds 🔗
- It's customary to pour water over the Fudo Myo-o statue to signify worship and to ensure the moss remains lush 🔗
- Many visitors splash water on the moss-covered Fudo statue to wish for luck 🔗
General Japanese Etiquette:
- Keep your voice low in public - it's considered polite 🔗
- Be mindful of local customs, such as the no double-dipping rule at kushikatsu restaurants 🔗
- Some popular spots in Hozenji Yokocho may require advance booking 🔗
Dining in Hozenji Yokocho
The alley is lined with about 60 establishments specializing in Japanese cuisine, bars, okonomiyaki shops, and kushikatsu shops, loved by gourmet enthusiasts nationwide. 🔗
Okonomiyaki Recommendations:
- Hozenji Yokocho Yakizen: One of the most popular okonomiyaki shops with a cozy atmosphere. The recommended dish is the "Yokocho-yaki," a unique okonomiyaki with a soft texture, using an original sauce with a fruit-like sweetness. Prices around ¥1000++ 🔗
- Hozenji Sanpei: Specializes in okonomiyaki where guests can watch their meal prepared by chefs on grills at the bar or in private booths 🔗
Kushikatsu Recommendations:
- Ganso Kushikatsu Daruma Hozenji Branch: The most renowned local kushikatsu chain in Osaka. There is often a queue to get in 🔗
- Wasabi: A Michelin-star restaurant that specializes in upscale kushikatsu, earning its star because of its kushiage 🔗
General Pricing: Average budget for restaurants in the area: during day: ¥1,000 - ¥1,999, at night: ¥3,000 - ¥3,999. 🔗 At some izakaya like Robatayaki Mizukakechaya, most dishes are only ¥300 ($2.75) per serving. 🔗
Nearby Attractions Integration
Dotonbori - Just 0.1 mile away from the temple area. 🔗 For a more high-energy experience, take a short walk to flashy Dotonbori and fill your night with street food, bar hopping, neon lights, and more. 🔗
Kuromon Market - A 9-minute walk from Hozenji Yokocho Alley. 🔗 Conveniently located within walking distance from Dotonbori and Namba. 🔗
All three locations (Hozenji Temple, Dotonbori, and Kuromon Market) are within comfortable walking distance of each other, making them ideal for a combined walking tour of the area. 🔗
The temple serves as an excellent "cultural anchor" within a broader Namba/Dotonbori exploration, providing contrast between historic tranquility and modern urban energy.
Important Notes
Access Difficulty: The temple entrance is tucked away and can be a bit hard to find - use Google Maps for navigation. 🔗
Narrow Alley: Be prepared for a very narrow space, especially when crowded from 7 PM onwards. 🔗
Restaurant Reservations: Some popular spots in Hozenji Yokocho may require advance booking. 🔗
Photography Challenges: Low-light conditions require appropriate equipment (tripod recommended) for the best results. 🔗
Social Media Popularity: This spot is popular with social media enthusiasts and can get really crowded. 🔗
Location: View on Google Maps
Source: attractions/osaka/hozenji-temple.md