About
The 19 graves of the Byakkotai warriors at the summit of Iimoriyama Hill, with memorial stones and monuments commemorating their tragic sacrifice in 1868. Source: Wikimedia Commons
Iimoriyama Hill (Mount Iimori, 飯盛山) is a 314-meter-high hill rising on the eastern edge of Aizuwakamatsu that serves as one of Japan's most emotionally powerful historical memorial sites. This sacred ground commemorates the Byakkotai (White Tiger Corps), a reserve unit of teenage samurai warriors who met a tragic end during the Boshin War of 1868. 🔗
The site's significance stems from a heartbreaking misunderstanding. On September 22, 1868, twenty young Byakkotai soldiers, aged 14 to 17 and mostly sons of high-ranking Aizu samurai families, fought desperately against the technologically superior imperial forces. After escaping through a small tunnel to Mount Iimori, they looked down upon their town and saw smoke and flames rising. Believing Tsuruga Castle had fallen and their families and lord were dead, nineteen of them chose to commit seppuku (ritual suicide) rather than face the dishonor of capture. In reality, the castle had not fallen—the flames were from the town outside the castle walls. 🔗
Only one boy, 14-year-old Iinuma Sadakichi, survived the suicide attempt after being rescued by a local peasant woman. He lived until 1931, working as a telegraph engineer and serving in the military, but carried profound guilt and sorrow for outliving his comrades. Upon his death, he was buried alongside them on Iimoriyama Hill. 🔗
Today, Iimoriyama is not a typical tourist attraction but a hallowed pilgrimage site. In 1887, individual graves were built for the 19 warriors, and the site attracts around 2 million visitors annually who come to pay respects. The memorial has garnered international recognition: in 1928, Italian dictator Benito Mussolini, deeply impressed by their loyalty, donated a Roman column from Pompeii; Nazi Germany later installed a memorial plaque. 🔗
The hill also features Sazaedo Temple (Entsū Sansōdō), a remarkable 16.5-meter-tall hexagonal Buddhist pagoda built in 1796 with a unique double-helix ramp structure—the only such wooden structure in the world. Originally housing 33 Kannon statues, it allowed pilgrims to complete the lengthy Saigoku 33 Kannon Pilgrimage in minutes. In 1995, it was designated a National Important Cultural Property and received one-star recognition in the 2018 Michelin Green Guide. 🔗 🔗
Cultural & Religious Significance
The Byakkotai and Samurai Bushido
The Byakkotai's story embodies the samurai code of Bushido—unwavering loyalty (chugi) to one's lord, honor (meiyo) above life, and courage (yu) in the face of defeat. Their sacrifice represents the final chapter of the samurai era, as Japan rapidly modernized and left the old feudal ways behind. 🔗
All Byakkotai members were students of the Nisshinkan, the domain's elite samurai school, where they had received comprehensive training in both martial arts and Confucian ethics from age 10. Their education emphasized the core Aizu principle of "Naranu koto wa naranu mono desu" ("What must not be, must not be") - an unyielding adherence to moral righteousness and duty. 🔗
The nineteen boys, aged 14 to 17, were mostly sons of high-ranking Aizu samurai families. They were meant to be a reserve force, yet when the Battle of Aizu intensified, they were called upon to defend their domain. Separated from their unit following the Battle of Tonoguchihara, they escaped through a dark ravine and climbed to the summit of Mt. Iimori. From there, they witnessed what they believed to be the fall of Tsuruga Castle. 🔗
Rather than face the dishonor of capture and live without their lord and families, they chose death. This decision, though based on a tragic misunderstanding, exemplifies the absolute nature of samurai loyalty and the severity of the Bushido code. The story has become one of Japan's most enduring legends, representing the purest ideals of samurai loyalty, youthful innocence, and tragic sacrifice. 🔗
Iinuma Sadakichi - The Sole Survivor
Fourteen-year-old Iinuma Sadakichi was the only survivor of the suicide pact. A local peasant woman found him and saved his life. While he went on to have a family and a successful career as a telegraph engineer and later served in the military, he carried profound guilt and sorrow for the rest of his life. When he died in 1931, he was buried alongside his nineteen comrades on Iimoriyama Hill, finally reunited with them in death. 🔗
International Recognition and Memorials
The Byakkotai story transcended Japan's borders and captured international imagination. In 1928, Italian dictator Benito Mussolini heard of the Byakkotai and was deeply impressed by their loyalty. He donated a column from the ancient Roman city of Pompeii to be erected by the graves at Iimori Mountain. This monument still stands today, bearing Italian inscriptions honoring the young warriors. 🔗
Later, Nazi Germany installed a memorial plaque at the site, recognizing what they called the "spirit of the young knights of Aizu." These international tributes, though originating from controversial regimes, demonstrate how the story of absolute loyalty and sacrifice resonated globally during the early 20th century. 🔗
Sazaedo Temple - Architectural Marvel
Midway up the slope stands Sazaedo Temple (Aizu Sazaedō), built in 1796. Named after its resemblance to a horned turban shell (sazae), the 16.5-meter hexagonal structure features an entrance decorated with intricate dragon carvings. Inside, a continuous double-helix ramp allows visitors to ascend one spiral and descend another without retracing steps or meeting others—a design unparalleled anywhere in the world. 🔗 🔗
Originally housing 33 Kannon statues for an abbreviated pilgrimage experience, it now stands as a National Important Cultural Property showcasing Edo-period architectural ingenuity. The temple received one-star recognition in the 2018 Michelin Green Guide, acknowledging its unique architectural and cultural value. 🔗
Visiting Information
Operating Hours:
- April - December: 8:15 AM to sunset
- January - March: 9:00 AM to sunset
- Open year-round 🔗
Sazaedo Temple Hours:
- April - November: 8:15 AM to sunset
- December - March: 9:00 AM to 4:00 PM
- Open year-round 🔗
Admission:
- Byakkotai graves and memorial area: Free access
- Escalator: ¥250 adults / ¥150 children (optional, one-way ascent)
- Sazaedo Temple: ¥400 adults, ¥300 university/high school students, ¥200 elementary/junior high students 🔗
- Byakkotai Memorial Hall: Located at the base of the hill
Access from Aizu-Wakamatsu Station:
- Aizu Loop Bus: Take the loop bus to "Iimoriyama-shita" bus stop at the base
- Akabe (clockwise direction): 5 minutes
- Haikarasan (counter-clockwise direction): 45 minutes
- Bus fare: ¥210 per ride or ¥600 for unlimited one-day pass
- Bus frequency: Every 30 minutes (Haikarasan) or once per hour (Akabe), operating 8:00 AM - 5:30 PM
- Distance from station: Approximately 2 km east 🔗 🔗
Accessing the Summit:
- Free stairs: Climb 183 stone steps to the summit (5-10 minutes, moderate physical effort)
- Paid escalator: ¥250 adults, ¥150 children for one-way ascent 🔗
Facilities:
- Restrooms available at the base
- Limited facilities on the hill
- Souvenir shops at the base with refreshments
- Free volunteer English guides (availability varies) 🔗
Current Status: Open with no reported restrictions or renovations
The Memorial Experience
The Byakkotai Graves
At the summit, nineteen individual graves stand in solemn rows, marking where each young warrior fell. Built in 1887, these graves are the focal point of the memorial, where visitors offer prayers and incense in respectful silence. The atmosphere is quiet and reverent—this is sacred ground for the Japanese, not entertainment. 🔗
Adjacent to the graves is a forum-like open space holding memorial plates and monuments, including the distinctive Roman column from Pompeii donated by Mussolini and a German memorial plaque recognizing the "spirit of the young knights of Aizu." A statue of a young Byakkotai soldier looks out toward Tsuruga Castle, capturing the moment of their tragic decision. 🔗
The View from the Summit
From the hilltop, visitors can see the exact view the Byakkotai saw in 1868—a panoramic vista of Aizu-Wakamatsu with Tsuruga Castle prominently visible approximately 1.5 kilometers away. This view makes the tragedy viscerally real: on a clear day, you can understand how smoke from the burning town could be mistaken for the castle itself. 🔗
Sazaedo Temple Experience
Midway up the slope, Sazaedo Temple offers a unique architectural experience. Visitors enter through dragon-carved doors and walk up a continuous spiraling ramp, emerging at the top without ever retracing their steps. The descent follows a separate spiral path, ensuring visitors never meet those going the opposite direction—a brilliant feat of 18th-century engineering. 🔗
Byakkotai Memorial Hall
Located at the base of the mountain next to the path, this museum houses artifacts from the Boshin War, documents related to the Byakkotai, and historical materials about both sides of the conflict—the Aizu Domain and the imperial forces. The exhibits provide essential historical context for understanding the tragedy that unfolded above. 🔗
Additional Sites
- Itsukushima Shrine: Small shrine on the hill grounds
- Ugashindo: Historic structure along the walking paths
- Stone monuments: Various commemorative stones and tablets inscribed with the names of the fallen Byakkotai members 🔗
Practical Visiting Tips
Cultural Etiquette and Memorial Protocol
This is a sacred memorial site requiring utmost respect:
- Maintain quiet, respectful demeanor at all times, especially near the graves
- Do not touch or climb on monuments, graves, or statues
- Bow respectfully when approaching the graves area
- Photography guidelines:
- General photography is permitted but exercise discretion
- Avoid casual selfies or celebratory photos at the gravesite
- Never photograph other visitors, especially those paying respects
- Do not use flash photography near graves or during memorial moments
- Focus on documenting the site's historical significance respectfully
- Offering respects: Visitors may offer prayers or a moment of silence; observe how Japanese visitors behave and follow their lead
- Incense offerings: Some areas may have incense available for visitors to offer at the graves
Best Time to Visit
Season and Time:
- Early morning (8:15-10:00 AM): Fewer crowds, better light for photography, peaceful experience
- Weekdays: More peaceful than weekends
- Late October to mid-November: Pleasant autumn weather with peak foliage viewing 🔗
Typical Visit Duration: 1.5-2 hours total including Sazaedo Temple and Memorial Hall 🔗
Seasonal Considerations for Late October-Mid-November
Weather:
- October: Daytime 17-21°C (62-70°F), cooler evenings, frequent rainfall—bring waterproof jacket
- November: Daytime 11-17°C (50-63°F), cold nights, possible first snow by late month—layer clothing
Foliage Viewing: While specific peak dates for Iimoriyama weren't documented, the Fukushima region experiences beautiful autumn colors during this period, adding natural beauty to the poignant memorial site. The surrounding trees and mountain vegetation provide seasonal color framing the historical monuments. 🔗
Lighting and Photography:
- Morning light (8:15-10:00 AM) provides soft illumination ideal for photographing the graves and castle view
- Autumn's lower sun angle creates dramatic lighting on stone monuments
- Overcast days (common in October) offer even lighting suitable for respectful memorial photography
Recommended Visiting Sequence
- Start with Byakkotai Memorial Hall at the base for historical context (20-30 minutes)
- Ascend via stairs or escalator to the summit
- Visit Sazaedo Temple midway up (15-20 minutes)
- Continue to the Byakkotai graves at the summit (30-40 minutes)
- Take in the view toward Tsuruga Castle
- Descend via stairs (escalator is one-way up only)
Physical Requirements and Accessibility
- Stairs option: 183 steps require moderate fitness but are manageable for most visitors
- Escalator option: Provides easier access for those with mobility limitations (¥250)
- Terrain: Stone steps can be slippery when wet; wear appropriate footwear
- Walking surfaces: Mostly paved or stone paths at the summit area
- Time consideration: Allow 1.5-2 hours total 🔗
Money-Saving Tips
- Purchase Aizu Loop Bus day pass (¥600) if visiting multiple Aizuwakamatsu sites
- Climb the stairs for free rather than using the escalator
- Bring your own water and snacks; limited facilities on the hill
Best Photo Spots
- The 19 graves with memorial monuments (maintain respectful distance)
- View toward Tsuruga Castle from the summit
- Sazaedo Temple exterior with dragon carvings
- Sazaedo Temple's unique double-helix interior ramp
- The Pompeii column donated by Mussolini
Weather and Seasonal Preparation
- October: Pack waterproof jacket and umbrella for frequent rain
- November: Bring layers, warm jacket, scarf; first snow possible late month
- Both months: Comfortable walking shoes with good traction for potentially wet stone steps
What to Bring
- Appropriate clothing for respectful memorial site visit
- Comfortable walking shoes with good traction
- Warm layers for autumn weather
- Camera (use respectfully)
- Cash for escalator and Sazaedo Temple admission
- Water and light snacks
Integration with Other Locations
Tsuruga Castle (1.5 km away): The castle is central to the Byakkotai story. Visiting both sites together is essential for understanding the full historical context. The walking route (50 minutes) passes through Aizu-Wakamatsu's backstreets with Hokkeji Buddhist temple and Akanumainari Shinto Shrine. Alternatively, the Machinaka Shuyu Bus connects both sites (35 minutes, ¥210). 🔗 🔗
Other Aizuwakamatsu Sites:
- Aizu Bukeyashiki: Samurai residences
- Oyakuen Garden: 17th-century medicinal garden
- Nanukamachi Street: Traditional merchant street
- All accessible via Aizu Loop Bus (¥600 day pass recommended)
Iimoriyama Hill is best experienced as part of a comprehensive Aizuwakamatsu day trip from Tokyo, ideally combined with Tsuruga Castle. Given the 2.5-3 hour travel time each way from Tokyo, visitors should depart early morning and plan for a full day. 🔗
Important Notes
Emotional Impact: This site carries deep emotional resonance for Japanese visitors and can be profoundly moving for international visitors who understand the historical context. The knowledge that the nineteen boys' sacrifice was based on a tragic misunderstanding adds layers of poignancy. Prepare for a somber, reflective experience rather than typical sightseeing.
Sacred Site Protocol: Treat this as you would any sacred or memorial site worldwide—with reverence, quiet respect, and cultural sensitivity. The site is not closed to tourists, but visitors are expected to honor its memorial purpose. This is hallowed ground where Japanese people come to pay respects to the fallen warriors.
Day Trip Logistics from Tokyo: A day trip from Shibuya to Aizuwakamatsu requires approximately 5-6 hours total travel time (2.5-3 hours each way), leaving 4-5 hours for sightseeing. Early morning departure (7:00-8:00 AM) is essential. Consider whether this travel commitment suits your itinerary, or explore overnight accommodation in Aizuwakamatsu or nearby Kitakata.
Connection to Broader History: The Byakkotai tragedy represents the death throes of the samurai class and the Tokugawa Shogunate. Understanding the Boshin War context enhances appreciation for this site's significance in Japanese history—it marks the end of 700 years of samurai culture and the beginning of Japan's rapid modernization.
Language: English signage available at major points; Memorial Hall may have English materials. However, deeper understanding of the site's significance is enhanced by knowing the historical context beforehand. 🔗
Location: View on Google Maps
Source: attractions/aizuwakamatsu/iimoriyama-hill.md