About
Fresh kinmedai (Beryx splendens) displayed for sale, showing the fish's distinctive ruby-red color and large golden eyes. Source: Wikimedia Commons
Kinmedai, scientifically known as Beryx splendens and commonly called golden eye snapper or splendid alfonsino in English, is a deep-sea fish that has become synonymous with Izu Peninsula cuisine. The fish is instantly recognizable by its vibrant ruby-red skin and large, golden eyesโadaptations for life in the dark depths of the ocean between 25 and 1,250 meters. ๐
The Izu Peninsula, particularly Shimoda Port, boasts the highest catch of kinmedai in all of Japan, making it the premier destination for experiencing this delicacy. ๐ The fish caught in the waters around Inatori and Shimoda are especially prized, with "Inatori Kinmedai" being a trademarked designation for the highest quality specimens landed at Inatori Fishing Port. ๐
Cultural & Culinary Significance
In Japanese culture, the color red is considered auspicious and is often associated with celebrations and good fortune, elevating kinmedai from a simple meal to a dish served on special occasions. ๐ The Ministry of Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries recognizes kinmedai simmered dishes as a traditional local cuisine of Shizuoka Prefecture, specifically mentioning Shimoda City and Higashiizu Town as production areas. ๐
The fish is celebrated for its uniquely rich, sweet, and fatty flavor profile with a firm yet delicate texture that melts in your mouth. Kinmedai is fatty all year round, has soft flesh and few small bones, making it easy to eat and perfect for various preparations. ๐
Fishing Heritage
The communities of Shimoda and Inatori are deeply intertwined with the sea and kinmedai fishing. Shimoda celebrates its connection with the annual Shimoda Kinme Festival held every June, where local restaurants offer special kinmedai dishes and the entire city joins in celebrating its most famous resident. ๐
Inatori is renowned for its traditional fishing method called "tatenawa" (standing rope fishing), which uses a vertical longline with many hooks lowered into the deep sea where the kinmedai live. This skillful and targeted method respects the marine environment and ensures the fish are caught with minimal damage, preserving their qualityโa source of pride for local fishermen. ๐
Traditional Preparation Methods
Nitsuke (Simmered)
The most popular way to enjoy kinmedai in Izu, this preparation involves simmering the fish in a flavorful broth made of soy sauce, sake, mirin, and ginger. ๐ The fish is typically covered with a drop lid and simmered on medium heat for about 15 minutes, with the broth scooped over the fish occasionally to ensure the flavors penetrate thoroughly. This quintessential Japanese comfort food represents a simple, traditional, and heartfelt way of cooking that enhances the fish's natural umami while tenderizing the flesh. ๐
Sashimi (Raw)
When served as sashimi, kinmedai highlights its freshness and delicate, sweet flavor. The preparation often involves lightly grilling the skin with charcoal or a blowtorch while the flesh remains raw. ๐ At traditional Edomae sushi restaurants, this fish is usually aged for 2 to 3 days after being dispatched using the ikejime technique, allowing the fish's natural enzymes to break down the proteins in the flesh, increasing the flavor and texture. ๐
Aburi (Flame-Broiled)
This modern technique involves lightly searing the surface of the fish with a torch, leaving the inside raw. The process adds a pleasant smokiness and a hint of caramelization that contrasts beautifully with the soft, fatty flesh. The skin is gently seared using the "Aburi" technique, which helps to tenderize it and unlock the umami flavors from the natural oils. ๐
Recommended Restaurants
1. Kinmetei (้็ฎไบญ / ๅธๅ ดใฎ้ฃๅ ้็ฎไบญ)
Location: ๅคใฑๅฒก1-1 (Sotogaoka 1-1), Shimoda, Shizuoka 415-0000 Situated at: Michi-no-Eki Kaikoku Shimoda Minato (roadside station) right next to Shimoda Port with ocean views ๐ Hours: 7:00-9:30 AM and 11:00 AM-3:00 PM daily; Closed Tuesdays ๐ Phone: 0558-22-6314 Price Range: From ยฅ1,500; popular set menus around ยฅ2,200-ยฅ5,000 ๐ Specialties: Kinme Sanshokudon (three-style kinmedai rice bowl), simmered kinmedai (ยฅ1,800), various kinmedai set meals Payment: Cash-only, ticket machine ordering system Access: Located at the roadside station facility near Shimoda Port
Notes: Located at the fish market facility with tourist information and souvenir shops. Reviewers note this restaurant offers the best kinmedai value with bigger portions despite lower prices compared to nearby seafood places. Reservations recommended as it fills up quickly. ๐
2. Gorosaya (ๆฌใฎๅณใใใใ / Shun no Aji Gorosaya)
Location: 1-5-25 Shimoda, Shizuoka 415-0021 Hours: 11:30 AM-2:00 PM (last order) and 5:00 PM-9:00 PM (last order); Closed Thursdays ๐ Phone: +81 558-23-5638 Price Range: Lunch average ยฅ2,000, Dinner average ยฅ3,500 ๐ Specialties: Kinmedai dishes, Sashimi and Kinme-ni Set Meal, Seafood Bowl Recognition: Rated 4.4/5 on Tripadvisor, ranked #1 of 162 restaurants in Shimoda ๐ Access: Five-minute walk from Shimoda Station, just off Mai Mai Street
Notes: Reviewers consistently praise this as having "the best kinmedai found in the peninsula" after trying multiple restaurants throughout Izu. English menu available, free parking nearby, reservations recommended. Small and cozy atmosphere. ๐ Look for the white restaurant with wood-carved hanging fish and hand-carved sign made from Japanese cypress tree. ๐
3. Tokuzomaru (็ถฒๅ ๆ็ๅพณ้ ไธธ / Amimoto Ryori Tokuzo Maru Hon Ten)
Location: 798 Inatori, Higashiizu-cho, Kamo-gun, Shizuoka 413-0411 Phone: +81 557-95-1688 Price Range: Lunch around ยฅ2,310 with tax; Kinmedai dishes ยฅ2,000-ยฅ2,646 ๐ Specialties: Kinmedai Zukushi Set (includes kinmedai grilled with soy sauce, raw sashimi, shabu-shabu, and miso soup), Inatori kinme tai-don (sea bream bowl ยฅ2,646), Fisherman's boiled rice bowl (ยฅ2,000) Heritage: Founded in 1926 as a fisherman of Inatori fishing port, preparing meals the way local fishermen like it ๐ Recognition: Ranked #1 of 47 restaurants in Higashiizu-cho on Tripadvisor ๐ Access: 10-minute walk from Izu-Inatori Station ๐
Notes: Right in front of Inatori Fishing Harbor, offering the freshest catches. Illustrated English menu available. First floor includes souvenir shop selling original sauces, pickles, and Inatori specialties. Options range from seafood rice bowls to kaiseki meals and kinmedai hitsumabushi (Nagoya-style). ๐
4. Honke Maguroya (ๆฌๅฎถใพใใใไผ่ฑ้ซๅๆฌๅบ)
Location: 1069-4 Yawatano, Ito City, Shizuoka (near Izu Kogen area) Hours: 11:30 AM-3:30 PM and 5:30 PM-9:00 PM (regular days); 11:30 AM-3:30 PM and 5:30 PM-8:30 PM (Sundays); Closed Wednesdays (open in August and New Year holidays) ๐ Specialties: "Braised Local Golden Eye Snapper Set" featuring Inatori Kinmedai braised in secret sauce, tuna dishes Heritage: Owner is a middleman for Izu Inatori Fisheries Cooperative, selecting and providing trademarked "Inatori Kinmedai" ๐ Access: About 7-minute walk from Izu Kogen Station on the Izu Kyuko Line ๐
Visiting Information
November Seasonal Considerations
Peak Season: November falls perfectly within kinmedai's peak season (October to late March), when the fish accumulates more fat to survive the cold water, resulting in a richer, more buttery flavor highly prized by connoisseurs. ๐
Weather Considerations: Early November in Izu offers pleasant autumn weather with comfortable temperatures for dining and exploring fishing towns. The coastal areas maintain mild conditions ideal for visiting seaside restaurants.
Crowd Levels: November is outside peak summer tourism season, offering a more authentic local dining experience with potentially shorter wait times at popular restaurants.
Practical Visiting Tips
Japanese Dining Etiquette
Before Eating: Say "Itadakimasu" (I gratefully receive) before beginning your meal to show respect for the food and those who prepared it.
Chopstick Etiquette:
- Never stick chopsticks vertically into rice (resembles funeral rites)
- Do not pass food directly from chopsticks to another person's chopsticks
- Use the blunt end of chopsticks to take food from shared plates if no serving utensils are provided
- Place chopsticks on a chopstick rest (hashioki) when not in use
During the Meal:
- It is polite to lift rice or soup bowls to your mouth
- Slurping noodles is acceptable and shows enjoyment
- Finish everything on your plate to show appreciation
After Eating: Express gratitude by saying "Gochisousama deshita" (Thank you for the feast) ๐
Dining Strategy
Best Time to Visit: Lunch service (11:30 AM-2:00 PM) offers the best value with set meals, though dinner service provides a more leisurely experience. Arrive early or make reservations, especially at highly-rated establishments like Gorosaya and Kinmetei.
Reservations: Strongly recommended for Gorosaya and Kinmetei, which are small establishments that fill up quickly. Japanese-speaking assistance may be helpful for booking.
Payment: Kinmetei is cash-only with ticket machine ordering. Confirm payment methods at other restaurants before dining.
Language: English menus available at Gorosaya, Tokuzomaru, and Honke Maguroya. Kinmetei uses a ticket machine system which may have pictures to help with ordering.
Photography: Generally acceptable in restaurants, but ask permission before photographing other diners. Food photography is widely accepted and expected in Japanese dining culture.
Preparation Recommendations: Try multiple preparation styles if possibleโthe Kinmedai Zukushi Set at Tokuzomaru offers an excellent introduction with grilled, raw, shabu-shabu, and miso soup preparations in one meal. ๐
Transportation: Both Shimoda and Inatori are accessible via the Izu Kyuko Line. Consider renting a car for flexibility in visiting multiple restaurants and exploring the coastal fishing ports between dining experiences.
Souvenir Opportunities: Tokuzomaru and Kinmetei both offer souvenir shops with local specialties, sauces, and picklesโperfect for bringing home Izu flavors.
Integration with Izu Peninsula Exploration
Kinmedai dining experiences integrate naturally with coastal exploration of the Izu Peninsula. Both Shimoda and Inatori offer beautiful harbor areas perfect for pre- or post-meal walks. The Michi-no-Eki roadside station at Kinmetei provides tourist information and local products, making it an ideal starting point for Shimoda exploration.
Inatori's fishing port area offers authentic working harbor atmosphere, while Shimoda combines maritime heritage with historical significance as one of Japan's first ports opened to foreign trade. Consider timing your kinmedai meal with visits to nearby coastal attractions, hot springs, or scenic viewpoints along the eastern Izu coast.
The restaurants' locations along the eastern Izu coast make them convenient stops during drives between major destinations on the peninsula, allowing you to experience this regional delicacy while enjoying the dramatic coastal scenery that characterizes the area.
Location: View on Google Maps
Source: attractions/izu-peninsula/kinmedai-restaurants.md