About
The iconic thousand-year-old "Meoto-Kusu" (Married Couple Camphor Trees) flanking the entrance to Kitaoka Shrine. Source: Wikimedia Commons
Kitaoka Shrine (北岡神社) stands as one of Kumamoto City's most historically significant spiritual sites, with origins dating back to 934 CE when it was established by enshrining the divided spirit from Kyoto's Yasaka Shrine (Gion Shrine). 🔗 The shrine has moved twice throughout its history—first to Mt. Asahi in 979, and finally to its present location at the foot of Mount Hanaoka in 1647, where it received protection from notable figures including the famous daimyo Kato Kiyomasa and the Hosokawa Family. 🔗
The shrine's most distinctive and celebrated feature is the pair of ancient camphor trees known as "Meoto Kusunoki" (夫婦楠), meaning "Married Couple Camphor Trees." These magnificent trees, which predate the shrine's arrival at its current location by hundreds of years, stand majestically on either side of the main torii gate, connected by a sacred shimenawa rope. 🔗 The male tree (Ogusu) reaches 21 meters in height with a 12-meter diameter, while the female tree (Megusu) stands 25 meters tall with a 10.3-meter diameter. 🔗 These trees are more than 1,000 years old and are believed to embody the harmonious marital union of the shrine's deities.
Cultural & Religious Significance
The shrine enshrines Takehaya Susanoo-no-Mikoto (建速須盞嗚尊) as its main deity, alongside his wife Kushinadahime-no-Mikoto (奇稲田姫命). According to Japanese mythology, Susanoo—initially a disgraced deity—redeemed himself by defeating the eight-headed serpent Yamata no Orochi to save Kushinadahime, whom he subsequently married. 🔗 This legendary act of heroism transformed him from a reviled figure into one of Japan's most important deities. The sword he discovered in the serpent's tail became one of Japan's Three Sacred Treasures.
Kitaoka Shrine also holds deep cultural significance through its connection to "Otemoyan," Kumamoto's most famous folk song. Tomo Tominaga, the woman believed to be the model for the song's character, was a parishioner of Kitaoka Shrine. Historical registration plates (ujiko-fuda) discovered among the possessions of Ine Nagata, the song's composer, confirm their affiliation with the shrine. 🔗
The shrine's convenient location—just 8 minutes walking from JR Kumamoto Station—makes it an easily accessible spiritual refuge for both locals and visitors. 🔗
Visiting Information
Getting There:
From JR Kumamoto Station:
- Walking: 8-10 minutes (approximately 300 meters directly north of the station) 🔗
- Kumamoto City Tram: Take the A line toward Kumamoto Station from Karashima-cho Stop, exit at Gionbashi Station, then walk 4 minutes 🔗
- Nearest tram station: Gion-bashi (Gion Bridge)
Contact Information:
- Tel: 096-352-2867
- Fax: 096-324-7259 🔗
Parking: Available for up to 20 vehicles 🔗
Hours:
- Winter hours (including November): 6:00 AM - 5:30 PM
- Summer hours: Extended operating times
- Open daily
Admission: Free entry 🔗
Best Time to Visit:
- Early morning (7:00-9:00 AM) for peaceful atmosphere and soft lighting
- Late afternoon (3:00-5:00 PM) for beautiful warm lighting
- November for pleasant cool weather and potential autumn foliage viewing
Typical Duration:
- 30-60 minutes for comprehensive visit including photography, rituals, and contemplation
- 20 minutes minimum for quick shrine worship and tree viewing
The Experience
The Meoto Kusunoki (Married Couple Camphor Trees)
The shrine's iconic feature, these thousand-year-old trees are believed to promote beneficial connections across all aspects of life—romance, friendship, business, health, and education. 🔗 Connected by a sacred shimenawa rope and flanking the main torii gate, the trees create a powerful spiritual presence that visitors walk through to receive blessings.
Ryōen Mairi (Figure-Eight Walking Ritual)
To receive the trees' blessings, visitors perform a special ritual called "Ryōen Mairi" (良縁まいり), meaning "Good Matchmaking Visit." This involves walking in a figure-eight pattern (like the infinity symbol ∞) around the two camphor trees. 🔗 Women traditionally turn right first, while men proceed left initially. Instructions are typically posted on a sign at the shrine. This unique practice is believed to grant wishes related to finding good partners and strengthening all forms of relationships.
Main Shrine Hall
The vermilion tower gate (romon) leads to the main worship hall, rebuilt in 1933. 🔗 Here visitors perform the traditional "Two Bows, Two Claps, One Bow" ritual (二拝二拍手一拝) after purifying themselves at the temizuya water basin.
Hoju-no-Okusu (Treasure-Granting Great Camphor)
Near the main hall stands another significant camphor tree called "Hoju-no-Okusu" (宝授の大楠), the "Treasure-Granting Great Camphor." This tree is particularly popular with couples seeking pregnancy blessings, who traditionally rub the tree while making their prayers.
Ema Wooden Plaques and Omamori
The shrine offers heart-shaped ema (wooden prayer plaques) for matchmaking wishes and bear-shaped designs symbolizing safe childbirth. Visitors can also purchase protective amulets (omamori) and try their fortune with unique "Koi Nobori Mikuji" (Love-Climbing Carp Fortune) paper fortunes. 🔗
Hidden Heart Stone
Somewhere within the shrine's stone walls lies a heart-shaped stone. Finding it is said to bring good luck to the discoverer. 🔗
Practical Visiting Tips
Cultural Etiquette
Approaching the Shrine:
- Bow once before passing through the torii gate
- Walk on the sides of the path (center reserved for deities)
- Maintain quiet, respectful conversation levels
Purification Ritual at Temizuya:
- Take the ladle with your right hand and pour water over your left hand
- Switch hands and pour water over your right hand
- Pour water into your cupped left hand and rinse your mouth (do not drink directly from ladle)
- Rinse your left hand once more
- Tilt the ladle upright to let remaining water cleanse the handle
Worship at Main Hall:
- Approach the altar and bow lightly
- Place coin offering in the box
- Ring the bell if present
- Perform "Two Bows, Two Claps, One Bow" (二拝二拍手一拝):
- Bow deeply twice (approximately 90 degrees)
- Clap hands twice
- Silently offer your prayer (stating name and address believed to enhance effectiveness)
- Bow deeply once more in gratitude
Figure-Eight Ritual:
- Follow posted instructions for the Ryōen Mairi walking pattern
- Women start by turning right; men start by turning left
- Walk mindfully and respectfully around both trees
Photography Guidelines
- Photography generally permitted throughout shrine grounds
- Avoid photographing ceremonies without explicit permission
- Be mindful of other worshippers when taking photos
- No flash photography during ceremonies or when disturbing spiritual atmosphere
- Best Photo Spots: Main entrance view through the married couple camphor trees showing the torii gate framed between them, looking up at the massive tree trunks and canopy, the vermilion romon tower gate from the stone steps approach, the main worship hall with architectural details, stone steps lined with ancient trees creating a natural tunnel effect
November Visit Considerations
- Weather: Cool and pleasant temperatures (typically 10-18°C), comfortable for walking
- Foliage: Potential for autumn colors in surrounding trees, though not a primary autumn foliage destination
- Crowds: November is outside peak tourist season, offering a more tranquil experience
- Photography: Lower sun angle provides excellent conditions for architectural photography
- Timing: Perfect as a short cultural stop between Kumamoto Station and next destination
- Morning light (7:00-9:00 AM) offers soft, diffused lighting ideal for capturing the ancient trees and red torii gates
- Afternoon light (3:00-5:00 PM) provides warm golden hour lighting enhancing the red structures and autumn foliage
What to Bring
- Cash (5 or 50 yen coins for offerings, additional funds for omamori/omikuji)
- Camera for capturing the ancient trees and architecture
- Comfortable walking shoes
- Light jacket for November weather
- Respect and open-minded curiosity about Shinto practices
Location: View on Google Maps
Source: attractions/kumamoto/kitaoka-shrine.md