πŸ“ Location: Izu Peninsula, Japan
🏷️ Category: Attraction
πŸ’° Cost: Varies
⏰ Best Time: See details
⏱️ Duration: Varies
🚢 Difficulty: Easy

About

Unagi Kabayaki (Una-don) Unagi kabayaki served over rice (unadon) - the traditional preparation showcasing grilled eel glazed with sweet soy-based sauce. Image from Wikimedia Commons.

Mishima unagi represents a unique regional culinary tradition where the pristine spring water from Mt. Fuji transforms freshwater eel into one of Japan's most celebrated regional delicacies. This is not simply about dining at an eel restaurant - it's experiencing a preparation method that has been refined over centuries and is intrinsically tied to Mishima's natural environment and cultural history. πŸ”—

Mishima is renowned as a "battleground" area in Shizuoka Prefecture where many famous eel restaurants compete, all utilizing the city's abundant Mt. Fuji spring water to create exceptionally clean-tasting, tender eel free from fishy odors. πŸ”—

November 8-9, 2025 is an excellent time to experience Mishima unagi. November to December is actually the peak season for wild eel flavor, contrary to the popular misconception that summer is best. Additionally, mid-November offers crisp views of Mt. Fuji and autumn foliage. πŸ”—

Cultural & Historical Significance

The Mishima Spring Water Secret

The secret lies in Mishima's identity as the "City of Water" - abundant crystal-clear spring water surfaces throughout the city, having originated as melted snow from Mt. Fuji that has been naturally filtered through layers of volcanic lava over many years. πŸ”—

Before cooking, live eels are placed in tanks of this pristine spring water for three to five days in a process called "shime" (締め - tightening or firming up). This crucial step:

  • Purges the eel of any muddy or fishy odors from its natural habitat
  • Causes it to shed excess fat through exposure to cold, clean water
  • Results in firmer, cleaner-tasting flesh that allows the natural richness of the eel to shine through

High-end restaurants like Sakuraya pump underground water from approximately 50 meters below the surface, exposing eels to this Mt. Fuji spring water for 2-3 days to achieve the signature "karumi" (lightness) that Mishima unagi is known for. πŸ”—

Historical Context and Sacred Taboo

The historical connection between Mishima and unagi is deeply rooted in local culture and legend. For centuries, eels in Mishima's rivers were considered sacred messengers of the powerful Mishima Taisha Shrine, and eating them was believed to bring divine punishment. One legend tells of the second Tokugawa shogun, Hidetada, sentencing vassals to death for consuming eel in the area. This taboo began to break down around the Meiji Restoration (1868) when anti-shogunate samurai flouted the old rules without consequence. πŸ”—

During the Edo Period (1603-1868), Mishima thrived as a post town on the Tokaido Road connecting Edo (Tokyo) and Kyoto. Travelers passing through contributed to the town's fame for unagi, and restaurants began to flourish. Today, establishments like Unagi Sakuraya, founded in 1856, have been serving this delicacy for over 160 years, maintaining traditional preparation methods. πŸ”—

Kanto-Style Preparation

Mishima unagi is prepared in the Kanto (Tokyo) style - a multi-step process that creates tender, flavorful results:

  1. The eel is slit open along the back (a method said to avoid the samurai taboo of belly-slitting or seppuku)
  2. Skewered and grilled over high-quality charcoal like Binchotan to make the skin crispy
  3. Steamed to remove more fat and make the flesh incredibly soft and fluffy
  4. Repeatedly dipped in a secret sweet-and-savory soy-based sauce (tare) and grilled again
  5. The sauce caramelizes into a beautiful glaze with rich, deep flavor

High-end traditional restaurants continue to rely on grilling over charcoal and using tare recipes passed down and refined for generations. πŸ”—

Visiting Information

Unagi Sakuraya (Most famous, founded 1856)

  • Address: 13-2 Hirokōjichō, Mishima, Shizuoka 411-0856, Japan πŸ”—
  • Access: Short walk from Mishima-Hirokoji Station on the Izu-Hakone Railway πŸ”—
  • Phone: +81 55-975-4520
  • Website: http://www.sakura-ya.net/
  • Hours: Monday-Friday: 11:00-14:30 (last order 14:00) / 16:30-20:00 (last order 19:30); Saturday-Sunday: 11:00-20:00 (last order 19:30) πŸ”—
  • Pricing: Β₯Β₯Β₯ range, minimum Β₯10,000 for two people recommended πŸ”—
  • Payment: Cash only - no credit cards accepted
  • English Support: English menu available, some staff speak English πŸ”—
  • Reservations: Phone reservations strongly recommended; walk-ins face 2-2.5 hour waits on weekends/holidays
  • Signature: Creates perfect "karumi" (lightness), avoiding overly sweet and fat-heavy preparation

Unagi Suminobo (Multiple locations, traditional establishment)

  • Honcho Branch: 1-37 Honcho, Mishima (Ranked #2 of 398 restaurants in Mishima) πŸ”—
  • Mishima Taisha-mae Branch: Right at the doorstep of Mishima Taisha shrine, 7-minute walk from Mishima-Tamachi Station (Ranked #4 of 833 restaurants) πŸ”—
  • Website: http://www.suminobo.jp/
  • Hours: 11:00-20:15 (last order); Closed Thursdays πŸ”—
  • Menu: Unagi sets with sashimi, chawanmushi (egg custard), also famous for eel shaomai dumplings πŸ”—
  • Preparation Style: Bold, flavorful sauce with perfect balance, crispy skin and tender fluffy meat

Unagi no Bando (Convenient station location)

  • Address: One-minute walk from the south exit of JR Mishima Station, next to Rakujuen Station entrance πŸ”—
  • Note: Opened in 2018, reservations generally required through Tabelog
  • Menu: Unaju (Sakura) priced at approximately Β₯4,200 πŸ”—
  • Specialty: High-grade domestic eels purified with Mt. Fuji water system

The Dining Experience

Arrival and Atmosphere

Traditional unagi restaurants in Mishima maintain quiet, refined atmospheres that reflect their long histories. Unagi Sakuraya, for instance, has been serving customers since 1856 from the same location near Mishima-Hirokoji Station. The restaurants often feature traditional Japanese architecture with tatami seating options (remember to remove shoes before stepping on the mats). πŸ”—

  • Unaju/Unadon: Kabayaki (grilled eel) over rice, served in a lacquer box (unaju) or bowl (unadon). This is the classic presentation
  • Hitsumabushi: A Nagoya specialty also popular in Shizuoka, featuring a three-stage eating ritual
  • Shirayaki: Simply grilled eel without sauce, lightly seasoned with salt and wasabi to appreciate the pure flavor
  • Kimo-yaki: Grilled eel liver, often served as an appetizer
  • Set meals: Include unagi with sashimi, chawanmushi (egg custard), miso soup, and pickles πŸ”—

Dining Ritual

Each restaurant serves unagi freshly prepared to order, meaning there will be a 20-30 minute wait after ordering while your meal is grilled and assembled. This wait is part of the experience - the aroma of grilling eel permeating the restaurant builds anticipation. When your meal arrives, the eel should have crispy, caramelized skin and tender, fluffy interior meat, served over perfectly cooked rice that has absorbed some of the sweet-savory tare sauce. πŸ”—

Practical Visiting Tips

Restaurant Selection Strategy

For First-Time Visitors: Unagi Sakuraya offers the most traditional, historic experience with the longest pedigree (since 1856). Despite wait times, the quality and authenticity justify the experience. Arrive at opening (11:00 AM) or make phone reservations well in advance. πŸ”—

For Convenience: Unagi no Bando is steps from JR Mishima Station, perfect if you're arriving by train and have limited time. Reservations through Tabelog recommended. πŸ”—

For Cultural Context: Suminobo Taisha-mae Branch combines unagi dining with proximity to Mishima Taisha shrine, allowing you to understand the historical taboo and cultural significance before dining. πŸ”—

Dining Etiquette and Best Practices

Before the Meal:

  • Use the provided wet towel (oshibori) to clean hands
  • Say "Itadakimasu" ("I gratefully receive") before beginning
  • If seated on tatami, remove shoes and sit seiza (kneeling) or cross-legged as comfortable

Eating Techniques:

  • Pick up the bowl/box with one hand while eating with chopsticks - this is proper form πŸ”—
  • For unaju/unadon, eat rice and eel together to balance flavors
  • Apply sansho (Japanese mountain pepper) sparingly - it should enhance, not overpower
  • Never rub chopsticks together (implies they're cheap quality)
  • Rest chopsticks on the chopstick holder when not using them

Hitsumabushi Three-Stage Ritual (if ordering this style):

  1. First portion: Eat as-is to appreciate pure flavor
  2. Second portion: Mix with condiments (nori, green onions, wasabi) for added complexity
  3. Third portion: Pour dashi broth or tea over to create ochazuke (tea rice)
  4. Fourth portion: Enjoy in your favorite of the three styles πŸ”—

After the Meal:

  • Finish all food, including every grain of rice - wasting food violates Japanese etiquette πŸ”—
  • Say "Gochisosama deshita" ("Thank you for the feast")
  • No tipping - the price is fixed

Money-Saving and Practical Tips

Budget Considerations:

  • Lunch sets are typically Β₯500-1000 cheaper than dinner portions with similar quality
  • Smaller portions (chiku/bamboo grade) cost less than premium portions (matsu/pine grade) but still showcase the quality
  • Unagi no Bando offers good value at Β₯4,200 for unaju compared to Sakuraya's higher prices πŸ”—
  • Bring sufficient cash - many restaurants (especially Sakuraya) don't accept cards

Wait Time Management:

  • Weekday lunches have shortest waits (30-45 minutes vs. 2+ hours on weekend/holiday peak)
  • Making phone reservations at Sakuraya bypasses walk-in queues entirely
  • If you encounter a long wait, explore nearby spring water sites (Genbe River is 5 minutes walk from Sakuraya)

Language Barriers:

  • Sakuraya and major restaurants have English menus πŸ”—
  • Learn key phrases: "Unaju kudasai" (unaju please), "Oishii desu" (this is delicious)
  • Point to menu items or photos if uncertain

Cultural Preparation

Understanding the Experience:

  • Mishima unagi is not fast food - the preparation time and ritual are part of the value
  • The premium price reflects labor-intensive preparation and the unique spring water purification process
  • Traditional restaurants maintain hushed atmospheres; avoid loud conversations
  • Appreciate that you're experiencing a culinary tradition dating back centuries

Respecting Local Customs:

  • Don't wear strong perfumes to traditional restaurants - they interfere with food aromas
  • Be patient with wait times - rushing violates the spirit of the experience
  • Follow the lead of Japanese diners around you for proper etiquette
  • Show appreciation to staff and chefs who have dedicated their lives to this craft

November Visit Considerations

Seasonal Advantages:

  • November to December is peak season for wild eel flavor πŸ”—
  • Winter and autumn offer the crispest views of Mt. Fuji from Mishima, enhancing the connection to the spring water source
  • Early November brings autumn colors, creating beautiful scenery around Mishima
  • November is shoulder season, with fewer tourists than summer but still pleasant weather

Recommended Timing: For your November 8-9 visit, consider:

  • Lunch on Day 1: Arrive at Sakuraya by 11:00 AM opening to minimize wait times (weekday visit ideal)
  • Pre-dinner exploration: Visit Mishima Taisha shrine in late afternoon, then walk to Suminobo Taisha-mae Branch for dinner
  • Combination itinerary: Pair unagi dining with visits to Mishima's spring water sites (Genbe River, Rakujuen Garden) to fully appreciate the water source

Nearby Attractions

Within Walking Distance:

  • Mishima Taisha Shrine: 7-minute walk from Suminobo Taisha-mae Branch - the shrine whose sacred eel messengers created the historical taboo πŸ”—
  • Genbe River (Genbe-gawa): 5-minute walk from Sakuraya - beautiful spring-fed river with crystal-clear Mt. Fuji water
  • Rakujuen Garden: Traditional Japanese garden featuring spring water ponds and seasonal beauty
  • Mishima Skywalk: Japan's longest suspension pedestrian bridge with Mt. Fuji views (10 minutes by car)

Route Integration:

  • Natural stopping point on the scenic route from Tokyo/Fujikawaguchiko to Izu Peninsula
  • Pairs well with visits to Mt. Fuji viewpoints to appreciate the source of the spring water
  • Can be incorporated into a "water-themed" day exploring Mishima's spring-fed waterways

Important Notes

Reservations Essential: For Unagi Sakuraya especially, phone reservations are critical during November tourism season. Call several days in advance: +81 55-975-4520. English support is limited on phone, so consider having your accommodation assist with booking. πŸ”—

Cash Requirements: Many traditional restaurants, including the most famous Sakuraya, accept only cash. Bring sufficient cash (minimum Β₯10,000 for two people) to avoid issues. πŸ”—

Sustainability Consideration: Japanese eel (Anguilla japonica) is classified as endangered. The restaurants in Mishima work with eel farms that maintain sustainable practices, but visitors should be aware of conservation concerns. πŸ”—

Wait Time Reality Check: Reviews consistently mention 2-2.5 hour waits at Sakuraya on weekends and holidays. Plan accordingly - either arrive at opening, make reservations, choose a weekday, or be prepared to explore nearby spring water sites during the wait. πŸ”—

Location: View on Google Maps

Source: attractions/izu-peninsula/mishima-unagi.md

πŸ“ Location Map