About
The legendary Tokko-no-yu hot spring in the Katsura River, said to have been created by Kobo Daishi in 807 AD. Source: Wikimedia Commons
Shuzenji Onsen is the oldest and most famous onsen town on the Izu Peninsula, founded over 1,200 years ago by revered monk Kobo Daishi. Known as "Little Kyoto" of Izu, it combines spiritual heritage, natural hot springs, and literary significance with intimate ryokan culture and pristine autumn landscapes. 🔗
The town's compact center stretches along the Katsura River for just a few hundred meters, preserving an atmosphere of traditional elegance with historic ryokan, vermillion-lacquered bridges, and the famous bamboo forest path. The quaint onsen town has stayed off the path of mass tourism, offering a pure and authentic Japanese experience centered on rest, relaxation, and cultural contemplation. 🔗
Cultural & Historical Significance
Kobo Daishi's Legend: The town's origins are inseparable from the legend of Kobo Daishi (Kukai, 774-835), the revered Buddhist monk who founded Shuzenji Temple in 807 AD. According to folklore, Kobo Daishi was moved by the sight of a boy caring for his ill father in the cold Katsura River. Striking a rock with his tokko (a Buddhist ritual pestle), he caused healing hot water to spring forth, creating Tokko-no-yu, the area's first hot spring. This act cemented the onsen's association with compassion, healing, and filial piety, defining the town's spiritual identity. 🔗 🔗
Kamakura Period Tragedies: During the Kamakura period (1185-1333), Shuzenji Temple became a somber memorial to brutal political power struggles. Minamoto no Noriyori, brother of first shogun Yoritomo, was exiled here in 1194 and forced to commit suicide. His nephew, Minamoto no Yoriie, the second shogun, was imprisoned at the temple and assassinated in 1204 at age 23 by his grandfather Hojo Tokimasa's soldiers. These tragic events mark Shuzenji as the historical end of the Minamoto clan's direct rule. 🔗 🔗
Literary Significance: The Izu Peninsula, including Shuzenji, holds deep literary significance as the setting for Kawabata Yasunari's semi-autobiographical short story "The Dancing Girl of Izu" (Izu no Odoriko, 1926). Kawabata spent extended periods in the nearby Yugashima area between 1924-1927 while writing the story, which features Shuzenji Onsen in the protagonist's journey. The work helped establish Kawabata's reputation and contributed to his 1968 Nobel Prize in Literature. Literary pilgrims still retrace the novella's route through the peninsula's forests, tunnels, and onsen villages. 🔗 🔗
Wasabi Growing Region: Shuzenji is positioned at the center of one of Japan's premiere wasabi growing areas, where pristine mountain streams provide ideal conditions for cultivating this prized ingredient. The town's restaurants serve the freshest wasabi in the world, often grated right before guests' eyes or provided as whole plants with stem-attached graters. 🔗
Visiting Information
Transportation:
- From Tokyo: Tokaido Shinkansen to Mishima Station (~40 minutes), then Izuhakone Railway to Shuzenji Station (35 minutes, ¥550), then bus to Shuzenji Onsen (5-10 minutes, ¥260)
- Alternative: Direct JR limited express Odoriko trains from Tokyo to Shuzenji (around 2 hours, about ¥4,500)
- Total Journey Time: Approximately 2 hours from Tokyo 🔗
Local Transportation: The onsen town center is compact and easily walkable, with most attractions clustered within a few hundred meters along the Katsura River. The entire town can be explored on foot in approximately 1.5 hours. 🔗
Public Bathing - Hakoyu:
- Hours: Noon - 9:00 PM
- Admission: ¥350
- Additional costs: Towel rental ¥100, shampoo/soap ¥50 (small travel-sized packets)
- Location: 3-minute walk from Shuzenji Onsen bus stop
- Facilities: Indoor cypress bath, washing area, 12-meter tall Gyokuro observation tower
- Note: This is Shuzenji's main sento (public bathhouse), the only one rebuilt from the seven that once lined the street 🔗
Tokko-no-yu (Historic Riverbed Spring):
- Location: Middle of the Katsura River bed in town center
- Access: Free to view
- Status: Currently used as viewing/photography spot
- Cultural Significance: Said to have been created by Kobo Daishi in 807 AD
- Note: For foot bathing, use Kawara-no-yu or River Terrace Suginoyu nearby
The Experience
Historic & Spiritual Sites
Shuzenji Temple: Founded over 1,200 years ago by Kobo Daishi in 807 AD, the temple serves as the spiritual and historical heart of the town. The temple grounds became a major complex supported by the Hojo family during the Kamakura period. Today, it stands as a memorial to the Minamoto clan tragedies and Kobo Daishi's compassionate founding legend. 🔗 🔗
Note: Shuzenji Temple's "secret garden" has special openings November 22 - December 1, 9:00 AM - 4:00 PM, admission ¥200 (just after planned November 8-9 visit dates). 🔗
Tokko-no-yu: The most prominent and oldest hot spring in Shuzenji, located in the middle of the Katsura River bed. The small rustic structure above the spring has become an iconic symbol of the town. While bathing is no longer permitted, it remains a popular photography spot and powerful reminder of the town's founding legend. The site embodies the intersection of natural phenomena, Buddhist spirituality, and healing traditions. 🔗
Natural Beauty & Walking Paths
Bamboo Forest Path (Chikurin-no-Komichi): A picturesque 300-meter walkway that meanders through a serene bamboo grove, often compared to Arashiyama in Kyoto. The path features a round bamboo bench at its center for contemplation amidst the soothing rustling of bamboo. Located just 3 minutes walk from Shuzenji Temple, the path offers traditional Japanese elegance and tranquility. The bamboo forest is illuminated at night for a magical atmosphere. 🔗 🔗
Five Red Bridges: The town features five vermillion-lacquered bridges crossing the Katsura River, each associated with a different aspect of love. Katsura Bridge and Kaede Bridge near the bamboo forest path are particularly photogenic and serve as hot spots for autumn foliage viewing. The bridges create striking visual contrasts against the river, surrounding greenery, and seasonal colors. 🔗
Shuzenji Nature Park (Momiji-bayashi): Located on the north side of the town, this 80-hectare park features the largest Japanese maple forest in the Izu Peninsula with approximately 1,000 trees per hectare. The park offers spectacular autumn foliage viewing from mid-November to early December, though early November visits will show beginning color changes. Free entrance with parking facilities (parking fee during maple season). Access: 15-minute bus ride from Shuzenji Station. 🔗
Culinary Experiences
Wasabi Specialties: Shuzenji is positioned at the heart of Japan's premiere wasabi growing region, where pristine mountain streams create ideal cultivation conditions. Restaurants serve the freshest wasabi in the world, often providing whole plants with stem-attached graters for diners to grate their own. Popular preparations include:
- Fresh wasabi with soba noodles
- Wasabi rice bowls (around ¥700 at Wasabi Garden Kagoya)
- Wasabi soft-serve ice cream at Café Hirono (grated on the spot to order)
- Wasabi pickles, miso, and various fusion applications 🔗 🔗
Black Rice Specialties: Local black rice is famous for its slightly sweet taste and chewy texture, appearing in soba noodles, fried rice, chiffon cake, and soft serve. Recommended restaurants include "Shuzenji soba restaurant Shikishi," "Yukawa restaurant," and "honohono café." 🔗
Traditional Kaiseki: Many ryokan and restaurants offer kaiseki meals that artistically showcase the best seasonal produce and seafood from the nearby coast. River fish specialties are available at Amago-jaya in a cozy, tourist-friendly setting. 🔗
Onsen Culture
Historic Ryokan:
- Asaba Ryokan: Over 500 years old (founded 1484), built in 1675, passed down through the Asaba family for generations while serving as temple keeper and Buddhist center 🔗
- Yukairo Kikuya: Over 380 years of history, hosted prominent novelist Natsume Soseki and other famous literary figures 🔗
- Arai Ryokan: Established 1872, registered cultural property with traditional wooden architecture 🔗
Practical Visiting Tips
Visit-Specific Information (November 8-9, 2025)
Seasonal Considerations:
- Early November represents the beginning of autumn color transformation in Shuzenji
- Peak foliage occurs mid-November to early December
- Early November offers:
- Early color changes beginning to show
- Significantly fewer crowds than peak season
- Ideal temperatures for onsen bathing (cooler weather enhancing the experience)
- Maple trees at Shuzenji Nature Park starting their gradual color transformation 🔗
Special Events During Visit:
- Katsuradani Pilgrimage (November 7-9): Annual three-day pilgrimage following a trail dotted with 88 shrines built by Kobo Daishi, featuring easy hill climbs past rice paddies and waterfalls. This coincides perfectly with the November 8-9 visit dates. 🔗
- Note: Shuzenji illumination and peak autumn foliage events begin November 15, just after the planned visit 🔗
Weather & Crowd Conditions: November marks the transition into the cooler season, with potential for cold, windy, or rainy days that paradoxically enhance the onsen experience. The Izu Peninsula sees fewer visitors during this period compared to summer months, offering a more tranquil, authentic atmosphere. 🔗
Best Photo Spots
- Tokko-no-yu: Iconic riverbed hot spring from multiple bridge angles
- Katsura Bridge & Kaede Bridge: Red bridges with river reflections and surrounding foliage
- Bamboo Forest Path: Both during day (natural light filtering through bamboo) and night (illumination)
- Shuzenji Temple: Traditional architecture with early autumn colors
- Nature Park maple forest: Wide vistas of color transformation (best mid-late November)
Onsen Etiquette
Basic Protocol:
- Remove all clothing before entering bathing area (place items in baskets/lockers)
- Wash thoroughly at designated washing stations before entering thermal waters
- Keep small towel (washcloth) with you but never allow it to enter the bath water
- Do not wear swimwear in traditional onsen
- Tattoos often prohibited or must be covered - inquire in advance or book private onsen if heavily tattooed
- Limit soaking time to 20 minutes maximum due to high water temperatures (often over 40°C)
- Stay hydrated before and after bathing 🔗 🔗
Temple Visiting:
- Bow respectfully before entering temple grounds
- Observe quiet, contemplative atmosphere in recognition of site's tragic historical significance
- Photography typically permitted but avoid disrupting others' contemplation
Ryokan Customs:
- Remove shoes at entrance, wear provided slippers
- Wear yukata (cotton kimono) provided by ryokan for walking around town and dining
- Respect quiet hours (typically after 10 PM)
- Kaiseki meals served at designated times - confirm schedule upon check-in
Money-Saving Options
- Public bath Hakoyu (¥350) offers authentic onsen experience without ryokan prices
- Bring own towel and toiletries to save ¥100-150 at Hakoyu
- Walk the entire town center rather than taking taxis (everything within 10-15 minute walking distance)
- Wasabi rice bowls (around ¥700) offer affordable taste of local specialty
- Free viewing of Tokko-no-yu, bridges, and temple grounds
Crowd Avoidance Strategies
- Visit public baths early afternoon (before 5 PM dinner rush) or early morning (before 8 AM breakfast time)
- Explore bamboo forest and temple area during midday when most guests are at lunch or resting
- November 8-9 naturally offers fewer crowds than peak foliage period (mid-November onward)
- Stay at traditional ryokan with private onsen to avoid public bath crowds entirely
Nearby Attractions
Joren Falls (Joren Waterfall): 25-meter-high waterfall in Namesawa Valley of Amagi Yugashima area, about 35 minutes by bus from Shuzenji Station. Named one of Japan's 100 best places to view fall foliage. 🔗
Amagi Pass Area: Historic mountain pass featured in Kawabata's "The Dancing Girl of Izu," where he encountered the traveling performers who inspired the story. 🔗
Mt. Daruma: 10km hike (approximately 3 hours) starting about 20 minutes by car from Shuzenji, passing through holy grounds and bamboo groves, ending with splendid views of Mt. Fuji. 🔗
Location: View on Google Maps
Source: attractions/izu-peninsula/shuzenji-onsen.md