Tokeiji Temple

About

Caption: Tokeiji Temple gardens and entrance - a serene Buddhist temple nestled in a steep valley. Source: Wikimedia Commons

Tokeiji Temple (東慶寺) was founded in 1285 by nun Kakusan-ni, wife of Hōjō Tokimune (1251–1284) and mother of Hōjō Sadatoki. Following her husband's death, Kakusan-ni became a nun as was customary and established the temple both to honor Tokimune's memory and to serve a groundbreaking social purpose - creating a sanctuary for women suffering in abusive marriages. 🔗

The temple earned its enduring nicknames "Enkiridera" (Divorce Temple) and "Kakekomidera" (Refuge Temple) through its unique role in feudal Japanese society. In the Kamakura and Edo periods, men could easily divorce their wives by simply writing a three-and-a-half line divorce letter (mikudarihan) without providing any reasons, while women had no such legal right. Tokeiji provided the only escape - women who reached the temple and stayed for three years (later reduced to two years) of religious service could become officially divorced. 🔗

During the Tokugawa period alone, an estimated 2,000 women sought shelter at Tokeiji. The temple would first attempt mediation, but if reconciliation failed, would invoke the Enkiridera law to force husbands to sign divorce certificates. 🔗 The temple's special privilege was protected by its connection to influential ruling families - the fifth abbess Yodo-ni was daughter of Emperor Go-Daigo (1288-1339), and Tenshu-ni, daughter of Toyotomi Hideyori and granddaughter of Toyotomi Hideyoshi, entered the temple at age seven after the Siege of Osaka in 1615. 🔗

Today, Tokeiji is nestled in a yato (steep valley) and is renowned as a "temple of flowers" with seasonal blooms including plum blossoms (late January-March), cherry blossoms (late March-April), hydrangeas and irises (late May-July), and spectacular autumn foliage (November-December). 🔗

Cultural & Religious Significance

Historical Role as Women's Sanctuary: Tokeiji's role as a kakekomidera represents a remarkable exception in feudal Japan's patriarchal legal system. For over 600 years (1285-1873), it provided the only legal avenue for women to escape abusive marriages when divorce law heavily favored men. 🔗

There were primarily two such temples during the Edo period: Tokeiji in Kamakura and Mantokuji in Joshu Seta. These temples retained their refuge privileges due to their connections with Senhime, granddaughter of Tokugawa Ieyasu, even as the Edo Bakufu gradually stripped temples of such powers through "Sect Law." 🔗

The temple lost its official divorce rights in 1873 when new laws transferred divorce proceedings to the Court of Justice. It remained a nunnery until 1902, when men were finally permitted to enter and a male abbot took position for the first time in over 600 years. 🔗

Religious Significance: As a Rinzai Zen temple and branch temple of nearby Engakuji, Tokeiji maintains important Zen Buddhist traditions. The temple houses several Important Cultural Properties, including a rare Suigetsu Kannon statue - a 34.5-centimeter tall image housed in the Suigetsudō Hall (constructed 1959). This statue follows a distinctive style dominant in Chinese Song-Yuan period (960-1368) Kannon images but rarely seen in Japan outside the Kamakura area. 🔗

The temple bell, cast in 1350, is designated an Important Cultural Property of Kanagawa Prefecture and resides in a belfry that survived the Great Kanto Earthquake. 🔗

Architectural Heritage: The original Butsuden (Main Hall), an Important Cultural Property, was purchased by businessman Tomitaro Hara in 1907 and is now displayed at Sankei-en Garden in Yokohama. The current main hall (Taiheiden) was rebuilt in 1935 in Hogyo Zukuri-style characteristic of Zen architecture. 🔗

Visiting Information

Operating Hours:

• March to October: 8:30 AM - 5:00 PM
• November to February: 8:30 AM - 4:00 PM 🔗

Admission:

• Adults: ¥200
• Children: ¥100
• Matsugaoka Treasure House: Separate admission ¥300, open 9:30 AM - 3:30 PM (closed Mondays except national holidays) 🔗 🔗

Getting There:

• Distance: 300 meters, 4-5 minute walk from Kita-Kamakura Station
• Directions: Take the West Exit of Kita-Kamakura Station on the JR Yokosuka Line (one station before Kamakura Station when coming from Tokyo/Shinagawa) 🔗 🔗

Best Times to Visit:

• Hydrangea Season: Late May to early July - the temple's yato (steep valley) fills with hydrangeas, irises, and silver-lace vines creating a divine atmosphere 🔗
• Autumn Foliage: Late November to early December - vibrant maples and golden ginkgo trees transform the grounds 🔗
• Plum Blossoms: Late January to early March 🔗
• Cherry Blossoms: Late March to early April 🔗

Accessibility: The temple is located on hillside terrain with moss-covered paths and stone steps. The intimate scale and valley setting create natural barriers that may challenge visitors with mobility limitations.

The Temple Experience

Visitors describe Tokeiji as a temple "not so much to see as one in which to 'be'" - the gentle rustling of trees, moss-covered paths, stone steps, fragrant flowering plants, and reverent atmosphere around well-tended graves create "a singular sense of serenity and quiet contemplation." 🔗

The temple grounds are compact but beautifully integrated with the surrounding hills. For the modest ¥200 admission, visitors can spend time in this peaceful, carefully tended environment that remains remarkably uncrowded even when major Kamakura temples are packed with tourists. 🔗

Main Buildings:

• Taiheiden (Main Hall): Rebuilt in 1935 in traditional Hogyo Zukuri Zen-style architecture
• Suigetsudō Hall: Constructed in 1959, houses the rare 34.5cm Suigetsu Kannon statue (Important Cultural Property, requires advance reservation to view)
• Belfry: Survived the Great Kanto Earthquake, contains bronze bell cast in 1350 (Important Cultural Property)
• Thatched gate: Charming entrance structure 🔗

Matsugaoka Treasure House (Separate ¥300 admission): Completed in 1978, the treasure house contains temple artifacts including:

• Wooden statue of Shō Kannon from the Kamakura Period
• Spanish hostia box from the Jesuits
• Divorce decrees from the Edo period
• Heirloom lacquer works (autumn exhibition)
• Buddhist images (spring exhibition) 🔗

Cemetery and Gardens: The back area contains the most serene ancient cemetery with older graves within caves dug into steep hillsides - these caves also function as shrines. The fine moss garden is seen best during light rain. 🔗 Notable graves include that of D.T. Suzuki, the renowned scholar who introduced Zen Buddhism to the Western world. 🔗

Seasonal Highlights: The temple's reputation as a "temple of flowers" is well-earned:

• Winter-Spring: Plum blossoms create delicate beauty (late January-March)
• Spring: Cherry blossoms frame the temple structures (late March-April)
• Early Summer: Hydrangeas, irises, iwa-tabako, and silver-lace vines fill the valley with color and fragrance (late May-July) 🔗
• Autumn: Maple foliage in vibrant reds and oranges alongside golden ginkgo trees (late November-early December) 🔗

Practical Visiting Tips

Photography Policy: Photography is strictly prohibited on the temple grounds. The temple requests that visitors appreciate the scenery with their own eyes rather than through camera lenses - a policy that enhances the contemplative atmosphere. 🔗

Cultural Etiquette:

• Dress modestly - covered shoulders and knees
• Remove shoes when entering buildings
• Maintain quiet demeanor throughout the grounds
• Respect cemetery areas - maintain silence and avoid disturbing prayer or memorial activities
• Given the temple's historical significance as a women's sanctuary, maintain respectful, quiet behavior

Visit Strategy:

• Duration: Allow 30-45 minutes for a contemplative visit of the main grounds, plus an additional 20-30 minutes if visiting the Matsugaoka Treasure House 🔗
• Best Time of Day: Early morning (right at opening) offers the most peaceful experience with fewer visitors and beautiful morning light filtering through the trees. Late afternoon before closing can also be serene.
• Crowd Avoidance: Tokeiji remains relatively uncrowded compared to major Kamakura temples, but weekends and peak foliage/hydrangea seasons see increased visitors. Weekday mornings are ideal.

Seasonal Considerations:

• Autumn (Late November-Early December): Peak foliage typically occurs late November to early December. Morning visits offer better lighting for appreciating the fall colors. Temperatures average 10-15°C (50-59°F), so bring layers. The moss gardens appear particularly lush after autumn rains. 🔗
• Hydrangea Season (Late May-July): If visiting during this period, the valley fills with thousands of hydrangea blooms. This is the temple's busiest season, so arrive early.

What to Bring:

• Cash for admission (¥200 main grounds, ¥300 treasure house)
• Comfortable walking shoes (moss-covered paths and stone steps can be slippery, especially after rain)
• Weather protection (small umbrella or rain jacket - the moss garden is beautiful in light rain)
• Journal or sketchbook (since photography is prohibited, consider bringing materials to sketch or journal about your experience)
• Layers (the valley location can be cooler than surrounding areas, especially in early morning or late autumn)

Nearby Attractions:

• Engakuji Temple (5 minutes from Tokeiji): Major Zen temple and Tokeiji's parent temple, with impressive architecture and Important Cultural Properties 🔗
• Jochiji Temple (3 minutes from Tokeiji): Intimate Zen temple with seasonal gardens
• Meigetsu-in Temple: Famous for "Window of Enlightenment" round window and blue hydrangeas
• Kenchoji Temple (20 minutes from Tokeiji): Top-ranked of Kamakura's Five Great Zen Temples 🔗

Kita-Kamakura Temple Walk: The temple forms part of an excellent 2.5km walking route from Kita-Kamakura Station: Engakuji Temple (2 minutes from station) → Tokeiji Temple (5 minutes) → Jochiji Temple (3 minutes) → Kenchoji Temple (18 minutes). 🔗

Important Notes:

• Photography Prohibition: Strictly enforced - no photography allowed on temple grounds. Plan to experience rather than document the visit visually. 🔗
• Treasure House Schedule: Matsugaoka Treasure House maintains separate hours (9:30 AM-3:30 PM) and is closed Mondays except national holidays. 🔗
• Suigetsu Kannon Viewing: The rare Suigetsu Kannon statue requires advance reservation for viewing. 🔗
• The temple is an active place of worship - maintain respectful behavior

Location: View on Google Maps

Source: attractions/kamakura/tokeiji-temple.md