About
Traditional akabeko (red cow) figurine, one of Fukushima Prefecture's most famous crafts and a symbol of the Aizu region. Source: Wikimedia Commons
Traditional craft shopping in Aizuwakamatsu centers primarily on the historic Nanukamachi Street (also spelled Nanokamachi-dori), an 800-meter pedestrian-friendly district that flourished as the western entrance to the castle town and remains the busiest craft shopping area in Aizu. 🔗 The street earned its name from markets held on the seventh day of every month during the feudal period. 🔗
The district showcases Meiji, Taisho, and early Showa era architecture transformed into contemporary craft shops and boutiques, creating an atmospheric shopping experience that transports visitors to early 20th-century Japan. 🔗 This preservation of traditional streetscapes combined with authentic artisan workshops makes Aizuwakamatsu one of Japan's premier destinations for experiencing and purchasing genuine traditional crafts.
Cultural & Historical Significance
Aizu Lacquerware (Aizu-nuri)
Aizu lacquerware represents the region's most prestigious craft tradition, established when feudal lord Ujisato Gamo invited lacquer specialists from Omi Province (present-day Shiga Prefecture) in 1590 to instruct local artisans in advanced techniques. 🔗 The craft achieved official recognition as a Traditional Craft in 1975 and employs distinctive decorative methods including:
- Keshifun maki-e: Gold powder application using cotton wadding
- Chinkin: Etching designs into lacquer and filling with gold
- Tetsusabinuri: Creating cast metal-like finishes using rust lacquer 🔗
Aizu Cotton (Aizu Momen)
Aizu Cotton developed as a practical textile suited to the region's extreme climate - hot summers and heavy winter snowfall in the inland basin. The characteristic weaving process involves firm starching of the warp with wheat starch solution before weaving the weft, creating fine nodes that contain a layer of air. This innovative structure provides superior heat retention in winter and high ventilation during summer. 🔗
The fabric is plain-woven, durable, and traditionally used for working clothes, though contemporary artisans now create modern lifestyle products including stoles, bags, and fabric accessories.
Aizu Painted Candles (e-rosoku)
Painted candles trace their origins to 500 years ago during the Hotoku era, when Lord Morinobu Ashina encouraged lacquer tree cultivation. Wax collected from lacquer tree fruits became the foundation for candle production, and when Gamo Ujisato invited artisans from Omi Province, they began painting delicate seasonal motifs - chrysanthemums, peonies, plum blossoms, and wisteria - onto the natural wax candles. 🔗
Each candle is still painstakingly hand-painted individually and serves as a regal decoration in Shinto and Buddhist ceremonies. 🔗
Akabeko (Red Cow)
Akabeko figurines represent a beloved folk craft rooted in 9th-century temple construction legend. According to tradition, a red cow appeared during the building of Enzo-ji temple in Yanaizu in 807 CE, helping transport timber for construction. 🔗
When Toyotomi Hideyoshi's representative Gamo Ujisato became lord of Aizu in 1590, he ordered court artisans from Kyoto to create toys based on the legendary red cow. 🔗 The papier-mâché figurines feature bobbing heads and white stripes representing strength and perseverance, and they gained cultural significance as health charms when people noticed children owning akabeko toys seemed immune to smallpox outbreaks. 🔗
Visiting Information
Access:
From JR Aizu-Wakamatsu Station:
- JR Tadami Line local train to Nanukamachi Station (1 stop, approximately 3 minutes)
- Haikara-san sightseeing circulation bus to Nanukamachieki-mae stop (approximately 8 minutes)
- Walking: 15 minutes on foot 🔗
Nanukamachi Street runs 800 meters from JR Nanukamachi Station to Noguchi Hideyo Seishun-dori, providing easy pedestrian access to all major craft shops. 🔗
Hours: Individual shop hours vary; Shirokiya Lacquerware operates 9:00 AM - 5:30 PM (closed Wednesdays, December 30-January 3, and first day of April for stocktaking; open daily during Golden Week April 29-May 7) 🔗
Best Time to Visit: Mid-morning to mid-afternoon on weekdays for October-November visits; weekends see more local visitors creating a livelier atmosphere
Typical Duration: 2-4 hours for comprehensive craft shopping with time to browse multiple specialty stores and potentially participate in a workshop
The Experience
Major Lacquerware Shops
Shirokiya Lacquerware
Founded over 300 years ago with the current Renaissance-style building completed in 1913, Shirokiya houses approximately 1,000 classic lacquerware items and modern accessories. Offerings include traditional oju multi-tier food boxes and owan bowls, contemporary maki-e gold and silver lacquerware stationery and accessories. 🔗
- Services: Custom family crest or name engraving, international shipping
- Features: Free museum about Aizu lacquer, "bargain corner" with slightly imperfect items for everyday use
- Location: 1-2-10 O-machi, Aizuwakamatsu-shi 🔗
Nuriichi Lacquerware Store (Nanoka-machi Shop)
Wide selection of authentic Aizu lacquerware including tableware (oju multi-tier food boxes, owan bowls, chopsticks), stationery, and accessories with maki-e gold and silver decoration. 🔗
- Location: Nanokamachi 3-36
Studio Suzuran
Contemporary approach to Aizu lacquerware with cute and stylish designs at reasonable prices, including modern interpretations where lacquer is applied to glassware instead of traditional wooden utensils. 🔗
Seki Lacquerware Store
Established over a century ago, presenting a wide range of gorgeous Aizu-nuri lacquerware with some elegant series decorated with gold leaf commanding high-end prices. 🔗
Aizu Cotton Shops
IIE Lab
Factory workshop and directly-managed store in the Aoki district of Aizusakashita Town (broader Aizuwakamatsu area), where the brand weaves Aizu cotton using looms manufactured approximately 100 years ago. 🔗
The workshop, housed in a repurposed kindergarten, allows visitors to observe the traditional weaving process and purchase stoles, fabric products, and other contemporary Aizu cotton items. 🔗 The Aoki district was a famous Aizu cotton production area until approximately 30 years ago, and IIE Lab took over looms, repaired and restored them to reproduce historical weaving techniques. 🔗
Painted Candle Shops
Hoshiban Painted Candle Shop
Started in 1772 as a direct supplier to the daimyo at Tsuruga Castle and has been operated continuously by the same family for over eight generations, making it the most authentic painted candle shop in Aizuwakamatsu. 🔗
The shop creates painted candles using wax made from Japanese wax tree seeds entirely by hand, with artisans painting intricate chrysanthemum and peony motifs onto each candle. 🔗
- Workshops: Candle painting available for 1,620 yen per person (reservations required two days in advance, up to 75 people)
- Main Location: Higashiyama Onsen (30-minute bus ride from central Aizuwakamatsu)
- Note: Painted candles also available at shops along Nanukamachi Street
Ozawa Candle Shop
Managed by the oldest illustrated candle craftsman owner in Aizuwakamatsu, preserving traditional chrysanthemum and peony patterns while painting colorful seasonal flowers according to the current season. Candle painting experiences available by reservation. 🔗
Akabeko Shops and Workshops
Multiple shops throughout the district offer opportunities to purchase pre-made akabeko figurines or participate in painting workshops where visitors create their own uniquely-decorated akabeko. 🔗
The traditional red akabeko figurines remain popular not only as toys but as lucky charms symbolizing good fortune, resilience, and protection against evil. 🔗
Practical Visiting Tips
Price Guidance
- Lacquerware: Small items (chopsticks, coasters) from ¥3,000; everyday bowls/plates ¥5,000-15,000; ceremonial pieces ¥30,000-100,000+ 🔗
- Aizu cotton: Hand towels/cloths ¥1,500-3,000; stoles ¥8,000-15,000; bags ¥6,000-12,000
- Painted candles: Individual candles ¥800-3,000; decorative sets ¥5,000-10,000
- Akabeko: Small figurines ¥1,000-2,500; large decorative pieces ¥5,000-10,000
- Workshop experiences: Lacquerware painting ¥1,000-1,900; candle painting ¥1,620; akabeko painting ¥2,500-5,000 🔗
Shopping Etiquette
- Greet shop owners with a polite "konnichiwa" upon entering
- Remove any large backpacks when browsing delicate lacquerware displays
- Handle items gently and always ask before touching high-value pieces
- Shop staff demonstrate exceptional omotenashi (selfless hospitality) - accept their attentive service graciously
- Purchase decisions can be made slowly; no pressure tactics exist in traditional craft shops 🔗
Distinguishing Authentic Crafts
- Authentic Aizu lacquerware features smooth, even coating with no visible brush strokes or bubbles
- Hand-painted details on lacquerware should show slight irregularities proving human craftsmanship
- Genuine maki-e gold powder work has depth and texture, not flat metallic paint
- Authentic Aizu cotton has a distinctive texture from the starched warp-weft node structure
- Traditional akabeko use papier-mâché construction with a bobbing head mechanism, not solid plastic
- Shops specializing in single craft traditions typically sell only authentic items
- Ask about the artisan or workshop that created specific pieces - legitimate shops provide this information
International Visitor Considerations
- Cash requirements: Many traditional shops accept only cash; bring sufficient yen (¥20,000-50,000 for serious shopping) 🔗
- International shipping: Shirokiya Lacquerware offers overseas shipping services 🔗
- Tax-free shopping: Some larger shops may offer tax-free shopping for purchases over ¥5,000 with passport presentation
- Language barriers: Minimal English at traditional shops; use translation apps or visit Aizuwakamatsu Station Tourist Information Center for assistance
- Authenticity verification: Request certificates of authenticity for high-value lacquerware purchases
Recommended Timing
- Start at Nanukamachi Station and work eastward toward Noguchi Hideyo Seishun Street for logical progression
- Visit the free Shirokiya Lacquerware Museum to understand lacquerware production before making purchases
- Allow 2-4 hours for comprehensive craft shopping
- Book lacquerware or candle painting workshops 2-3 days in advance
- Mid-week visits (Tuesday-Thursday) offer quieter shopping with more opportunities to engage shop owners
Seasonal Considerations (October-November)
- Pleasant autumn weather (typically 10-20°C) ideal for comfortable outdoor shopping
- Lower humidity than summer months enhances the shopping experience
- Fewer crowds than peak spring cherry blossom season allows more personalized shop attention
- Comfortable walking conditions for exploring the full 800-meter street district
Location: View on Google Maps
Source: attractions/aizuwakamatsu/traditional-craft-shopping.md