About
Tsuruga Castle showing its distinctive red-tiled roof, the only such castle in Japan. Source: Wikimedia Commons
Tsuruga Castle (鶴ヶ城, Tsurugajo), also known as Aizuwakamatsu Castle, stands as one of Japan's most historically significant fortresses, representing the final chapter of the samurai era. Located in the center of the Aizu basin in Fukushima Prefecture, this castle is uniquely distinguished as the only castle in Japan with a red-tiled roof, restored to its historical appearance during the 2011 renovation. 🔗
The castle's most critical role in Japanese history occurred during the Boshin War (1868-1869), when the Aizu clan, fiercely loyal to the Tokugawa Shogunate, made their last stand against imperial forces. In October 1868, the castle endured a brutal month-long siege as modern Western artillery pounded its walls. On October 29, the attack intensified with 50 cannons each firing 50 shells into the castle's interior. Survivors described the assault as "extremely terrifying, surrounded by cannon fire from every direction, and the bullets from enemy rifles fell like rain." 🔗 🔗
Despite being heavily outnumbered and outgunned, the Aizu samurai mounted a formidable defense, showcasing legendary discipline and martial prowess. Inside the castle walls, 5,000 citizens sheltered alongside military forces, including 600 women and children who formed organized workgroups to cook, clean, make gun cartridges, and nurse nearly 1,500 wounded soldiers. Around 20-30 women formed the Joshigun, their own defensive unit to actively defend the castle. 🔗
The most famous female warrior was Nakano Takeko (1847-1868), a skilled naginata fighter who led an unofficial women's unit called the Joshitai. When mortally wounded during battle, she asked her sister Yuko to behead her to prevent the enemy from taking her head as a trophy, ensuring she received an honorable burial. 🔗 🔗
The eventual surrender on November 6, 1868, broke the final major resistance to the new Meiji government, effectively marking the end of Japan's feudal era. 🔗
Cultural & Historical Significance
The Red Tile Roof Restoration
The castle's distinctive red roof tiles carry profound historical significance. The original castle keep was dismantled in 1874 by the Meiji government as a symbolic act to erase icons of the old feudal order. A concrete reconstruction was built in 1965 with standard grey tiles, but historical research revealed that during the late Edo period—particularly during the Boshin War—the castle had distinctive red roof tiles. 🔗
The 2011 restoration project replaced the grey tiles with historically accurate red ones, returning the castle to its exact appearance during its most defiant moment in history. The red color comes from iron-containing glaze, and these tiles excel in insulation—crucial for enduring Aizu's harsh winters. This restoration was not merely aesthetic but a powerful statement of regional identity and cultural pride. 🔗
The Byakkotai Tragedy Connection
The siege is inseparable from the tragic story of the Byakkotai (White Tiger Force), a reserve unit of teenage samurai aged 16-17 who were mobilized to defend the domain. During a retreat, a group of these young warriors from their position on nearby Iimoriyama saw smoke rising from the castle town and mistakenly believed the castle had fallen. Rather than face the dishonor of capture, they committed ritual suicide (seppuku). This act of ultimate loyalty has become a powerful symbol of the Aizu spirit, and their graves on Iimoriyama remain an important pilgrimage site. 🔗
Architectural and Defensive Features
Tsuruga Castle was designed as a formidable fortress with multiple defensive layers. The central keep was protected by deep moats and high, intricate stone walls—considered some of the best in northern Japan. The nearby Yukawa River was integrated as a natural moat protecting the southern face. The castle featured multiple baileys or enclosures (Honmaru, Ninomaru) creating layered defenses that forced invading armies to fight through successive fortified areas. 🔗
Visiting Information
Operating Hours:
- Castle Tower: 8:30 AM - 5:00 PM daily (last admission 4:30 PM)
- Castle Grounds (excluding tower): Open 24 hours, admission free
- Closed: No regular holidays (December 30-January 3 tours not available) 🔗
Admission Fees:
- Castle Tower only: ¥410 (adults), ¥150 (children)
- Rinkaku Teahouse only: ¥210
- Combination ticket (Castle + Teahouse): ¥520
- Green tea and snack at teahouse: Additional ¥600
- Discounted combo ticket available for castle, teahouse, and Oyakuen Garden 🔗
Access from Aizu-Wakamatsu Station:
- Haikara-san sightseeing bus (counter-clockwise): 20 minutes to Tsuruga-jo Iriguchi stop
- Akabe bus (clockwise): Similar duration
- Bus fare: ¥210 per ride or ¥600 unlimited day pass
- Frequency: Haikara-san every 30 minutes; Akabe once per hour
- Walking: 30 minutes from station 🔗 🔗
Facilities:
- Restrooms: Separate building next to tourist information center with accessible facilities
- Parking: Paid parking lot on castle grounds starting at ¥300
- Gift Shop: Aizu lacquerware, Akabeko figurines, samurai merchandise, local sake and sweets
- Wheelchairs and walking sticks: Available for loan at information desk 🔗
Current Status: Open and operating normally with all facilities accessible
The Castle Experience
Castle Tower Museum (Five Floors)
The castle tower houses an engaging museum that leads visitors through Aizu's history as they ascend the five floors. There are no elevators or shortcuts—visitors must climb flights of stairs to reach the observation deck. 🔗
Museum Highlights:
- Feudal Lord Exhibits: Swords and armor of the castle's successive lords
- Boshin War History: Comprehensive exhibits about the castle's role in the 1868-1869 conflict
- Samurai Lifestyle: Artifacts, weapons, and detailed explanations of samurai culture
- VR Experience: Virtual reality presentations showing the four seasons at Tsurugajo
- Boshin War Models: Detailed dioramas explaining the people and events of the war
- Historical Scrolls and Katanas: Significant artifacts from the Aizu clan's history
- Children's Samurai Dress-Up Area: Ground floor interactive area
- All exhibits include both English and Japanese explanations 🔗
Fifth Floor Observation Deck: Spectacular panoramic views overlooking Mt. Bandai, Mt. Iimoriyama (where the Byakkotai tragedy occurred), and Mukaihaguroyama Castle. This vantage point provides excellent perspective on the castle's strategic location in the Aizu basin. 🔗
Castle Grounds and Gardens
The expansive castle park is famous for its seasonal beauty, particularly during cherry blossom season (early April) and autumn foliage (late October-mid November). The grounds feature walking paths through gardens with maple and ginkgo trees that beautifully change colors, blending seamlessly with the historical architecture. 🔗
Evening Illumination: During peak foliage season (late October-mid November), the castle and foliage are illuminated from sunset until 8:30 PM, creating magical nighttime views with reflections on the moat surface. 🔗
Rinkaku Teahouse
Located within the castle park grounds, this historic teahouse was where feudal lords held traditional tea ceremonies. Visitors can experience authentic Japanese tea culture in a serene garden setting. The teahouse serves casual cups of green tea with traditional sweets from a famous local shop. 🔗
Practical Visiting Tips
Best Time to Visit
Season and Time:
- Early morning (8:30 AM opening): Best for avoiding crowds and soft photography light
- Weekdays: Significantly fewer visitors than weekends
- Autumn Foliage Season (Late October-Mid November): Peak color with evening illuminations
- Evening illumination: Arrive 6:00-7:00 PM to avoid later crowd peaks 🔗
Typical Visit Duration:
- Quick visit (tower only): 1-1.5 hours
- Comprehensive visit (tower museum + grounds + teahouse): Half day (3-4 hours) 🔗
Seasonal Considerations for Late October-Early November
Autumn Foliage Timing:
- Peak viewing period: Late October through mid-November
- Best color: Early November typically shows the most vibrant maple and ginkgo colors
- The combination of red and gold foliage against the castle's red-tiled roof and white walls creates exceptional photography opportunities 🔗
Weather Considerations:
- Temperature: Cool to cold (November: 5-12°C / 41-54°F)
- Recommended: Dress warmly for evening illumination viewing
- Comfortable walking shoes essential for navigating stairs and potentially wet grounds 🔗
Cultural Etiquette
Inside the Castle:
- Remove shoes if required in certain museum areas
- Speak quietly and be respectful in exhibits about the Boshin War and Byakkotai tragedy
- Photography restrictions in certain museum areas—watch for signage
- Queue patiently for observation deck during busy periods
At Rinkaku Teahouse:
- Follow traditional tea ceremony etiquette if participating
- Bow slightly when receiving tea
- Handle tea bowl with both hands
- Express gratitude to staff
General Behavior:
- The castle is a memorial to those who died during the Boshin War; maintain respectful demeanor
- Do not climb on castle walls or fortifications
- Stay on designated paths in gardens
- Dispose of trash properly (carry-out culture in Japan)
Photography Recommendations
Best Photo Spots:
- Fifth-floor observation deck: Panoramic views of surrounding mountains
- Castle grounds viewing the tower: Best angles from moat area showing reflections
- Garden areas: Maple and ginkgo trees framing the castle
- Evening illumination: Moat reflections create stunning mirror images
Photography Rules:
- Tripods may be prohibited during crowded periods
- Flash photography typically discouraged inside museum areas
- Be mindful of photography etiquette in crowded areas 🔗
Money-Saving Tips
- Day Pass: ¥600 unlimited bus pass saves money over individual ¥210 rides
- Combination Tickets: Castle + Teahouse combo (¥520) saves ¥100
- Free Castle Grounds: Extensive grounds accessible 24/7 without admission fee
- Multi-Site Discount: Combo ticket available for castle, teahouse, and Oyakuen Garden 🔗
Physical Considerations
- Five floors of stairs with no elevator in castle tower
- Not wheelchair accessible inside tower (grounds have some accessible paths)
- Wheelchairs and walking sticks available for loan at information desk
- Allow extra time if mobility is limited 🔗
What to Bring
- Comfortable walking shoes (stairs and potentially wet grounds)
- Warm clothing layers (especially for evening illumination)
- Camera with good low-light capability for evening shots
- Cash (some facilities may not accept cards)
- Water bottle (vending machines available but limited inside castle)
Integration with Other Locations
Tsuruga Castle serves as the historical and cultural centerpiece of Aizuwakamatsu, providing essential context for understanding the entire Aizu region's identity. The castle's story directly connects to:
- Mt. Iimoriyama: Where the Byakkotai witnessed the castle under siege before their tragic suicide (50-minute walk or 35-minute bus ride for ¥210)
- Aizu Bukeyashiki: Samurai residences that housed the warriors who defended the castle
- Suehiro Sake Brewery: Founded 1850, short distance from castle, represents the domain's prosperity
- Ouchi-juku: Historic post town (30 km away) that served travelers to and from the Aizu domain 🔗
Recommended Combination Visit
Tsuruga Castle and Mt. Iimoriyama make an ideal combination visit, telling both sides of the Byakkotai story. The walking route (50 minutes) passes through Aizu-Wakamatsu's backstreets with Hokkeji Buddhist temple and Akanumainari Shinto Shrine. Alternatively, the Machinaka Shuyu Bus connects both sites (35 minutes, ¥210). 🔗
Important Notes
Physical Requirements:
- Castle tower requires climbing five floors of stairs with no elevator access
- Not suitable for visitors with significant mobility limitations
- Observation deck stairs may be steep and narrow
- Allow 1-2 hours minimum for tower visit depending on fitness level 🔗
Cultural Sensitivity: Remember that this site represents one of Japan's most tragic historical moments. The Boshin War resulted in significant loss of life, particularly among young samurai. Approach exhibits about the Byakkotai and war casualties with appropriate solemnity and respect for the regional memory of these events.
Transportation from Tokyo: Aizuwakamatsu is accessible from Tokyo via JR Tohoku Shinkansen to Koriyama, then JR Ban'etsu West Line to Aizu-Wakamatsu Station (total journey approximately 3 hours). Plan accordingly for day trip timing or consider overnight stay in the region. 🔗
Location: View on Google Maps
Source: attractions/aizuwakamatsu/tsuruga-castle.md