About
Yayoi Kusama's iconic Yellow Pumpkin sculpture on Naoshima's pier. Photo: Official JNTO Japan Travel page ©YAYOI KUSAMA Photo: Tadasu Yamamoto
Naoshima Island represents one of Japan's most remarkable cultural transformations - from industrial copper smelting town facing environmental devastation and population decline to internationally celebrated contemporary art destination. The island's economy flourished after a large-scale copper refinery was built in 1917, but pollution from acidic emissions decimated trees on Naoshima and neighboring islands. The population dropped from around 8,000 in the 1950s-60s to just over 3,000, and declining copper production led Mitsubishi to turn to waste recycling. 🔗
In the late 1980s, a visionary partnership began the island's renaissance. Soichiro Fukutake, son of the founder of publishing company Fukutake (later Benesse Corporation), established the Fukutake Foundation in 1985 with the aim to revive local communities through contemporary art that draws on distinctive regional history, culture, and nature. 🔗 Collaborating with renowned architect Tadao Ando, they launched the "Benesse Art Site Naoshima" project to transform the area into an artistic enclave. 🔗
The Benesse House Museum opened in 1992 as an early milestone, combining museum and hotel in Ando's signature concrete architecture. This was followed by the underground Chichu Art Museum in 2004, dedicated to light and featuring works by Claude Monet, James Turrell, and Walter De Maria. The Art House Project beginning in 1998 transformed abandoned village houses in Honmura into walk-in artworks.
Today, Naoshima attracts 800,000 tourists annually from around the world. 🔗 The island serves as a main venue for the Setouchi Triennale, an international art festival held every three years since 2010.
Cultural & Historical Significance
Naoshima's transformation represents a model for how art tourism can revitalize communities while preserving tradition and demonstrating respect for heritage, balancing contemporary art installations with the everyday life of the island community. 🔗 The success has even led to slight population increases as people move to the island to open shops and businesses.
The Setouchi Art Islands movement, with Naoshima at its center, represents a collaboration between Benesse Corporation and architect Tadao Ando to revive the Seto Inland Sea region through contemporary art. The Setouchi Triennale, held every three years, has Soichiro Fukutake serving as General Producer. 🔗
Visiting Information
CRITICAL FERRY LIMITATION (Culture Day - November 3, 2025)
PRIMARY CONCERN: Car ferries to Naoshima do NOT operate on Sundays and national holidays. Only high-speed passenger boats (no vehicles) operate on these days. 🔗 This makes bringing a rental car to Naoshima impossible on Culture Day.
Ferry Access from Uno Port (Okayama)
Primary Route - Closest to Sanyo Expressway:
- Distance from expressway: Approximately 27 minutes drive (13 miles) from Okayama to Uno Port 🔗
- Regular ferries: 20-minute crossing, Adult ¥300/Child ¥150
- High-speed boats: Adult ¥590/Child ¥300
- Ferry capacity: 450-500 passengers and 60 cars
- Destination: Miyanoura Port (west side of Naoshima) 🔗
- Car ferry reservation: Contact Shikoku Kisen directly (TEL: 087-892-3104)
- National holiday limitation: Car ferries do NOT operate on national holidays like Culture Day
Uno Port Parking: Parking available near ferry terminal; overnight parking possible. Contact Uno Port Inn across from ferry terminal for parking information. 🔗
Alternative Ferry Access from Takamatsu Port (Shikoku)
- Regular ferries: 50-minute crossing, Adult ¥680/Child ¥340 one-way
- High-speed boats: 35 minutes to Ieura Port, Adult ¥1,590/Child ¥800
- Destination: Miyanoura Port (west side) 🔗
- Contact: TEL: 087-821-5100
Museum Hours & Admission
Chichu Art Museum:
- Hours: 9:00 AM - 5:00 PM (last entry 4:30 PM)
- Admission: ¥2,060, online advance booking required and cheaper
- Timed entry reservations required 🔗
Benesse House Museum:
- Hours: 9:30 AM - 4:00 PM (last entry 3:30 PM)
- Admission: ¥1,030 🔗
Lee Ufan Museum: ¥1,030 Art House Project: Varies by house; ¥510 for Ando Museum
Advance Booking Essential:
- Online tickets go on sale 10:00 AM on the 5th of the month, two months in advance
- November tickets available September 5 at 10:00 AM 🔗
- May need to book months ahead during busy periods like Culture Day
- Some Tokyo museums free on Culture Day, though not Naoshima-specific
Best Time: Early morning (leave by 8 AM for day trips) to maximize time; Chichu Art Museum ideal 2.5-3 hours. Avoid weekends and national holidays for smaller crowds (though Culture Day will be busy). 🔗
Duration: Minimum meaningful visit 6-8 hours on island. Recommended full day or overnight (2 days ideal for relaxed pace). Individual museums: Chichu 2.5-3 hours, Benesse House 1.5-2 hours, Art House Project 2 hours. 🔗
What to See and Do
Iconic Outdoor Sculptures
Yayoi Kusama's Pumpkin Sculptures: The Red Pumpkin welcomes visitors at Miyanoura Port where ferries dock - usually the first artwork travelers encounter. 🔗 The Yellow Pumpkin (2 meters high, 2.5 meters wide) perches at the end of an old pier near Benesse House Museum, surrounded by blue ocean and green trees, creating one of Japan's most photographed contemporary artworks. 🔗 Unveiled in 1994, it was the largest pumpkin sculpture Kusama had created to that date. The Yellow Pumpkin was damaged by Typhoon Lupit in August 2021 and has been newly created and reinstalled as of October 4, 2022. 🔗
Tadao Ando Museums
Chichu Art Museum: The crown jewel of Naoshima's art architecture, Chichu ("underground") Art Museum was completed in 2004 and embedded entirely into a hillside to avoid affecting the Seto Inland Sea scenery. 🔗 Despite being primarily subterranean, Ando chose "light" as the central theme - triangular and square openings frame the blue Setouchi sky, and natural light changes the appearance of artworks throughout the day and seasons. 🔗
The museum houses permanent installations by three artists: Claude Monet's "Water Lilies" paintings, James Turrell's light and space works, and Walter De Maria's "Time/Timeless/No Time" installation. Each gallery was created through uncompromising collaboration between architect, artists, and director. Photography strictly prohibited inside. 🔗
Benesse House Museum: Opened in 1992, this museum-hotel hybrid was the early milestone of Benesse Art Site's island revitalization efforts, designed by Tadao Ando in his signature concrete architectural style. The museum seamlessly integrates contemporary art with its natural coastal setting. 🔗
Lee Ufan Museum: A collaboration between architect Tadao Ando and Korean minimalist artist Lee Ufan (central figure in the Mono-ha movement circa 1970), this semi-subterranean museum opened as the first institution dedicated solely to Lee's oeuvre. Located just 500 meters (9-minute walk) from Chichu Art Museum. 🔗
Ando Museum: A museum showcasing the history of architect Tadao Ando and Naoshima's transformation, located in Honmura village.
Art House Project (Honmura Village)
The Art House Project transformed abandoned houses, a temple, and a shrine in Honmura's residential district into walk-in artworks beginning in 1998. Currently comprises seven locations: Kadoya, Minamidera, Kinza, Go'o Shrine, Ishibashi, Gokaisho, and Haisha. 🔗 Artists weave in history and memories from when buildings were lived in, creating site-specific installations that blur lines between art, architecture, and daily life.
The art houses are unassuming from the street, blending into traditional Japanese neighborhood. Visitors pass through Honmura district between houses, engaging not only with art but sensing layers of time and history interwoven in the community fabric. Photography permitted except for Minamidera and Kinza. 🔗
Practical Visiting Tips
Culture Day Considerations (November 3, 2025)
CRITICAL FERRY ISSUE: Car ferries do NOT operate on national holidays including Culture Day. Only high-speed passenger boats (no vehicles) operate. Bringing a rental car to the island on Culture Day is impossible. Alternative options:
- Leave car at Uno Port parking and take passenger ferry
- Visit Naoshima on a different day (November 2 or 4) when car ferries operate
- Skip Naoshima detour entirely and continue main route
Museum Holiday Schedule: Museums typically close on Mondays, but during 3-day holiday weekends remain open Monday and close Tuesday instead. 🔗 Since November 3 is Culture Day (Monday), museums will be OPEN.
Advance Booking Essential: Tickets for November should be booked by 10:00 AM on September 5 (two months ahead). Arrive with extra time during busy holiday periods. 🔗
Island Transportation
Bicycle Rental Highly Recommended:
- Five rental places near Miyanoura Port, two at Honmura Port
- Cost: ¥800-1,000 for full day, electric bikes ¥1,500/day recommended for hills 🔗
- Island is very hilly - electric bikes specifically recommended
- Rent early as bikes run out quickly, especially holidays
- Cycling between sites takes ~10 minutes vs. 30+ minutes walking
Walking Times Reference:
- Miyanoura Port → Honmura: 30 min (2.5km)
- Honmura → Benesse House Museum: 30 min (2.5km)
- Benesse House → Lee Ufan Museum: 9 min (500m)
- Lee Ufan → Chichu Art Museum: 9 min (500m)
- Chichu → Miyanoura Port: 30 min (2.5km) 🔗
Advance Planning Essentials
- Book museum tickets 2 months ahead (on 5th of month at 10:00 AM)
- Bring CASH - not all venues accept credit cards
- Wear slip-on shoes - must remove at several museums
- Wear clean, presentable socks
- No fountain pens or ink inside museums
- Baby carriages not permitted inside museums
Photography & Etiquette
Permitted Areas:
- Outdoor sculptures (Red and Yellow Pumpkins)
- Most outdoor art installations
- Art House Project (except Minamidera and Kinza)
Prohibited Areas:
- Inside Chichu Art Museum (strictly prohibited)
- Inside most island museums
- Flash, tripods, selfie sticks, telephoto lenses, and drones not allowed
Route Integration & Feasibility
Total Detour Time: 8-10 hours minimum (including ferry crossings and island exploration)
Route Modification Required:
- Exit Sanyo Expressway at Okayama area
- Travel to Uno Port (45 minutes from Okayama Station)
- Ferry crossing to Naoshima (20 minutes)
- Island exploration time (minimum 6-8 hours)
- Return ferry to Uno Port
- Resume Sanyo Expressway route toward Osaka
Feasibility Assessment: This major detour is only feasible if:
- Willing to dedicate most of a full day to Naoshima
- Can visit on November 2 or 4 (when car ferries operate) OR
- Comfortable leaving car at Uno Port overnight parking
- Contemporary art is a high priority interest
- Have successfully booked museum tickets months in advance
The detour adds 1-2 hours of driving detour plus 40+ minutes ferry time each way, making it incompatible with significant progress toward Osaka on the same day.
Location: View on Google Maps
Source: attractions/beppu-to-osaka-ferry-route/naoshima-island.md