About
Panoramic view of Onomichi's hillside temples and the Seto Inland Sea channel - Wikimedia Commons
Onomichi is a quaint historic port city that extends from the mainland across the Seto Inland Sea. 🔗 The city's port opened in 1168 and for the next 500 years served as a rice shipment center and port for all trades with foreign countries, developing as the largest port city in the Seto Inland Sea during the Middle Ages. 🔗
Today, Onomichi's main selling point is nostalgia, with streets that criss-cross the steep hillside that rises almost immediately from the seafront. 🔗 The city is characterized by its many slopes with narrow lanes winding through residential areas, creating an intimate streetscape that has inspired numerous Japanese filmmakers.
Cultural & Historical Significance
During the Edo era, the port of Onomichi vibrated with the rhythm of trading boats calling in on the way between Osaka and Hokkaido. 🔗
The city became more famous during the 1980s and 1990s thanks to director Nobuhiko Obayashi's movies, particularly his "Onomichi Trilogy," and the city was also the setting for Yasujiro Ozu's masterpiece "Tokyo Story" (1953). 🔗
The city serves as the Honshu terminus of the Shimanami Kaido, which leads across six islands before terminating on Shikoku in Imabari City. Until March 31, 2026, tolls are waived for cyclists as a temporary measure to promote tourism. 🔗
Visiting Information
Access: Onomichi is located directly on the main route from the Shimanami Kaido terminus. The city center and waterfront are easily accessible from the expressway exit. The Onomichi Bypass provides direct access to the city, about 20 minutes to Onomichi U2. 🔗
Hours: Most temples and public areas accessible throughout the day; Onomichi Station Tourist Information Center available for current information. 🔗
Senkoji Ropeway: Operates daily; parking at Senkoji Park (70 spaces, fee required) 🔗
Seasonal Considerations: November offers comfortable temperatures (15°C average high, 8.6°C low) with peak autumn foliage at temples mid to late November. 🔗 Senkoji Temple's autumn leaves provide best viewing from mid to late November. 🔗
November 3 (Culture Day) Considerations: National holiday celebrating arts and culture may result in increased visitor numbers at temples, museums, and cultural sites. Higher traffic expected on expressways and at popular attractions. Parking areas may fill earlier; arrive early to secure spaces.
The Experience
Temple Walk (25 Temples)
Onomichi's famous Temple Walk connects 25 temples winding up and down cobbled streets that criss-cross along the city's high hills. The route is about 2.5 kilometers long and can take anywhere from one hour to half a day depending on time spent at each temple. 🔗
Senkoji Temple & Park
Senkoji Temple is located 140 meters above sea level on the middle slope of Mt. Daiho, overlooking Onomichi Port. 🔗 From the modern concrete observation deck at Senkoji Park, visitors get an excellent view of Onomichi, Onomichi Channel, Mukaishima Island, and other islands in the Seto Inland Sea. 🔗
In autumn, the park offers stunning foliage and stages the Onomichi Lantern Festival. 🔗
Cat Alley (Neko no Hosomichi)
A 200-meter-long alleyway stretching from Ushitora Shrine to Tenneiji Temple. Artist Shunji Sonoyama hand-painted 108 lucky stone cats (Fukuishi Neko), each unique with different expressions, hidden on fences, in trees, on roofs, and within cafes. 🔗 Visitors receive good fortune if they stroke the cats' heads three times.
Onomichi Hondori Shopping Street
A 1.6km long covered arcade comprising five shopping streets with about 400 unique shops. The shopping district is well-known for its retro atmosphere with a wonderful mix of long-running family businesses and trendy cafes and boutiques. 🔗
ONOMICHI U2
A stylish complex in a renovated warehouse providing cycle-themed and cyclist-friendly accommodation, shops, cafes, and restaurants. The Giant Onomichi cycling terminal is located here, serving as one of the two official Shimanami Kaido cycling terminals in Onomichi. 🔗
Practical Visiting Tips
Driving Considerations:
- Senkoji Park Parking: 70 car spaces near mountaintop station, fee required 🔗
- Onomichi Station Port Parking: Public parking adjacent to ONOMICHI U2, costs ¥2,000 per night 🔗
- Certain narrow pathways are off-limits to cars; park at designated areas and explore on foot 🔗
Best Photo Spots:
- Senkoji Park observation deck for panoramic city and Seto Inland Sea views 🔗
- Temple Walk elevated viewpoints showing hillside character and neighboring islands
- Cat Alley's quirky stone cats and nostalgic alleyway atmosphere 🔗
Local Food Experiences:
- Onomichi Ramen: Signature dish made with chicken broth and dried small fish dashi, soy sauce-based with flat medium-thin straight noodles and minced back fat on surface 🔗
- Onomichi Ramen Ichibankan: Popular spot on Kaigan Dori, previously included in Michelin Guide 🔗
- Oyatsu-to-Yamaneko: 15-year-old pudding shop selling delicious pudding in branded milk bottles 🔗
Local Etiquette:
- Respect temple grounds and follow posted guidelines at religious sites
- Remove shoes when entering temple buildings
- The streets are steep and narrow; be mindful of local residents and other visitors
Location: View on Google Maps
Source: attractions/beppu-to-osaka-ferry-route/onomichi-port-city.md