About
The world's first triple suspension bridge spanning the Kurushima Strait, part of the Shimanami Kaido route. Image from Wikimedia Commons.
The Shimanami Kaido (Nishiseto Expressway) represents one of Japan's most spectacular engineering achievements and scenic driving routes. Completed in 1999, this 70-kilometer expressway physically and economically linked the previously isolated communities of the Seto Inland Sea islands with mainland Honshu and Shikoku, transforming logistics and daily life across the region. 🔗
The route consists of nine bridges connecting six islands - Mukaishima, Innoshima, Ikuchijima, Omishima, Hakatajima, and Oshima - each bridge an engineering marvel in its own right. The Kurushima Kaikyo Bridge stands as the world's first triple suspension bridge with a total length of 4 kilometers, while the Tatara Bridge was the world's longest cable-stayed bridge when completed. This collection of unique, record-breaking structures makes the route a showcase of modern Japanese bridge engineering. 🔗
While famous worldwide as a "cyclist's holy land," the route offers drivers a comfortable, climate-controlled way to experience the grand scale of the bridges and dramatic island landscapes. The expressway features dedicated cycling paths alongside vehicle lanes, and numerous roadside stations provide facilities accessible to both cyclists and drivers. 🔗
Cultural & Historical Significance
Historically, these islands were crucial for trade and transportation, linking the two main islands for centuries. The ancient "Shimanami Route" was used by travelers and merchants, and during the Sengoku period, the area was home to the Murakami Kaizoku - powerful naval clans who ruled the Seto Inland Sea. 🔗
Engineering Achievement:
The Nishiseto Expressway opened on May 1, 1999, spanning 59.4 kilometers (36.9 miles) with four lanes and a separated path for pedestrians and cyclists. The route connects Onomichi in Hiroshima Prefecture on Honshu with Imabari in Ehime Prefecture on Shikoku. This collection of bridges represents numerous technological advancements:
- Tatara Bridge: Center span of 890 meters, world's longest cable-stayed bridge 1999-2008
- Kurushima Kaikyo Bridge: World's first triple suspension bridge, 4 kilometers total length
- Construction Achievement: Multiple bridges completed without major accidents, setting engineering records
Cycling Culture:
The Shimanami Kaido has earned recognition as one of the world's premier cycling routes, with a sister cycling road agreement with Taiwan's Sun Moon Lake Cycling Course. The "Cyclist Sanctuary" monument at Tatara Shimanami Park symbolizes this cultural significance. Thousands of cyclists traverse the route annually, making it a pilgrimage site for cycling enthusiasts worldwide. 🔗
Visiting Information
Toll Cost: Approximately ¥5,000 one-way for standard cars (total expressway fare) 🔗
Base Drive Time: 1-2 hours for direct crossing without stops
Recommended Duration: Full day (6-8 hours) to properly explore island stops and viewpoints
Operating Status: Open year-round; bridges may close during severe weather or high winds
Route Structure:
- Designated as E76 Nishiseto Expressway
- Continuous highway with interchanges on each island
- Total distance: approximately 70 kilometers
- Nine bridges spanning six islands
Access:
- From Beppu (via Yawatahama/Matsuyama): Enter at Imabari IC on Shikoku side
- Continue to Onomichi on Honshu side
- Expressway provides direct access to all islands via interchanges
Route Context: The dramatic conclusion to the Beppu-to-Osaka ferry route journey. After exploring Matsuyama (45 minutes from Imabari), this 70km island-hopping crossing marks the transition from Shikoku back to Honshu mainland. The route showcases world-class bridge engineering while providing access to island culture, viewpoints, and the Seto Inland Sea landscape.
Seasonal Considerations (November 3):
- Culture Day national holiday - expect increased traffic and crowds
- Peak cycling season with optimal weather conditions
- Clear autumn weather ideal for photography
- Average high 15°C (59°F), excellent visibility
- Minimal rainfall, less wind than winter months 🔗
The Nine Bridges Experience
1. Shin-Onomichi Bridge (Honshu to Mukaishima)
- First bridge when starting from Onomichi
- Marks transition from mainland to island-hopping experience
2. Innoshima Bridge (Mukaishima to Innoshima)
- Classic suspension bridge, 1,270 meters total length
- Connects to island rich in pirate/naval force history
- Views from Ohama PA observation deck
3. Ikuchi Bridge (Innoshima to Ikuchijima)
- Cable-stayed bridge, 790 meters
- World's longest cable-stayed bridge when completed in 1991
- Gateway to Ikuchijima's art and cultural attractions
4. Tatara Bridge (Ikuchijima to Omishima)
- HIGHLIGHT: Most elegant bridge on the route
- Cable-stayed bridge with 890-meter center span
- Was world's longest cable-stayed bridge when opened
- Unique "dragon's roar" acoustic effect under towers
- Best photographed from Tatara Shimanami Park 🔗
5. Omishima Bridge (within Omishima)
- Only arch bridge on the route
- Completed in 1979, oldest of the modern bridges
6-8. Hakata-Oshima Bridge (Hakatajima to Oshima)
- Girder bridge connecting to final island before Shikoku
9. Kurushima Kaikyo Bridge (Oshima to Imabari)
- HIGHLIGHT: World's first and longest triple suspension bridge
- Total length: 4 kilometers across Kurushima Strait
- Construction took over nine years (completed 1999)
- Three successive suspension bridges create dramatic visual impact
- Most photographed bridge on the entire route 🔗
Major Island Stops
Mukaishima Island:
- Mount Takami Observatory: Easy car access, panoramic views of Onomichi and first bridges
- View on Google Maps
Innoshima Island:
- Innoshima Suigun Castle: Murakami Suigun naval force history
- Innoshima Ohashi Memorial Park: Green space with bridge views
- Ohama PA: Service area with observation deck
- View on Google Maps
Ikuchijima Island:
- Kosanji Temple & The Hill of Hope: Lavish temple complex with marble sculpture garden - must-see attraction
- Hirayama Ikuo Museum of Art: Dedicated to famous modern painter
- Setoda Sunset Beach: 800-meter white sand beach
- View on Google Maps
Omishima Island:
- Oyamazumi Shrine: Ancient shrine housing 80% of Japan's National Treasure samurai armor (founded 594, 2,600-year-old camphor trees)
- Tokoro Museum Omishima: Modern art museum with sea views
- Tatara Shimanami Park: Roadside station with spectacular Tatara Bridge views
- View on Google Maps
Oshima Island:
- Kirosan Observatory Park: Best viewpoint on entire route, 360-degree views of Kurushima Kaikyo Bridge, Kengo Kuma design
- Murakami Suigun Museum: Maritime clan history
- View on Google Maps
Practical Visiting Tips
Driving Considerations:
- Don't stay only on expressway - exit at island interchanges to explore
- Be aware of "half interchanges" (one-direction access only)
- Most scenic routes are local island roads closer to water
- Bridges have separated cycling infrastructure
- Exercise caution sharing roads with cyclists on island sections
- ETC (Electronic Toll Collection) recommended for smooth passage 🔗
Route Integration: This 70km crossing transforms the journey from "Shikoku exploration" to "return to Honshu mainland," marking a significant geographic transition. After Matsuyama cultural immersion, the island-hopping route provides engineering marvels, coastal scenery, and island culture before continuing toward Osaka. Logical stop sequence: Tatara Shimanami Park (Omishima) → Kirosan Observatory (Oshima) → Onomichi arrival.
Cultural Etiquette:
- Remember this is Japan's most famous cycling route
- Drive defensively and share roads courteously with cyclists
- Particularly heavy cyclist traffic on weekends and holidays
- Most cyclists during November (peak season through late November)
- Do not photograph while driving - use designated parking areas 🔗
Budget Considerations:
- Toll cost: ¥5,000 one-way (keep receipt for expense tracking)
- Free parking at roadside stations and observation points
- Island attractions have separate admission costs
- Budget full day if exploring multiple islands (6-8 hours)
- Recommended minimum stops: Kirosan Observatory + Tatara Shimanami Park 🔗
Photography:
- November offers clear autumn light ideal for bridge photography
- Best times: Early morning sunrise, late afternoon golden hour
- Kirosan Observatory: Sunset views particularly spectacular
- Tatara Bridge: Dramatic lighting from Tatara Shimanami Park
- Bridge illumination visible after dark from observation points
- All viewpoints require stopping - do not photograph while driving
Timing Strategy:
- 1-2 hours: Direct crossing only (minimal stops)
- 4-6 hours: Major viewpoints and 1-2 island attractions
- Full day: Multiple island stops, museums, temples, leisurely exploration
- Culture Day (Nov 3): Start early to avoid peak holiday crowds
- Consider priorities based on ferry schedule to Osaka
Must-Stop Viewpoints:
- Kirosan Observatory Park (Oshima): Best overall panorama, Kengo Kuma design
- Tatara Shimanami Park (Omishima): Iconic Tatara Bridge views, local food
- Ohama PA (Innoshima): Convenient expressway stop with bridge views
- Itoyama Park (Imabari): Close-up views of Kurushima Kaikyo Bridge
Location: Route start (Onomichi) - View on Google Maps
Source: attractions/beppu-to-osaka-ferry-route/shimanami-kaido-crossing.md