About
Exterior view of Teshima Art Museum showing the distinctive water droplet-shaped concrete shell architecture by Ryue Nishizawa. Source: Wikimedia Commons
Teshima Island is a small island in Kagawa Prefecture's Seto Inland Sea, known globally as one of the venues of the Setouchi Triennale contemporary art festival. 🔗 The name "Teshima" (literally, "rich island") reflects how the island is blessed with spring water, including a sacred fountain called "Karato-no-shimizu" at the foot of Mt. Danyama. 🔗 With over 300 water reservoirs, the island's approximately 700 residents have historically supported themselves through rice cultivation, dairy farming, fishing, and vegetable growing.
Teshima's transformation into an art destination began in 2010 with the opening of the Teshima Art Museum and the inaugural Setouchi Triennale. 🔗 This development was part of a broader rural revitalization initiative led by the Benesse Corporation and Fukutake Foundation, aiming to counteract depopulation and environmental degradation in the Seto Inland Sea region through contemporary art and cultural tourism. 🔗
The island successfully integrates contemporary art installations with its agricultural heritage. Terraced rice fields in the Karato district, which had fallen into neglect, were restored in collaboration with local residents through the "Terraced Rice Fields Project." 🔗 Today, these terraced rice fields spread over slopes facing the sea, creating one of the island's most distinctive features and providing the setting for the Teshima Art Museum.
Teshima receives considerably fewer visitors compared to neighboring Naoshima (approximately 150,000 annually versus Naoshima's 300,000), 🔗 creating a quieter, more contemplative atmosphere.
Cultural & Historical Significance
The village of Karato-oka developed around the sacred spring and presents a view of an earlier time now rarely seen in Japan. 🔗 A circular road connects the island's three small fishing villages, where old townscapes remain from when Teshima flourished through trade within the Seto Inland Sea.
Before water pipes were introduced, it was rare to grow rice on Seto Inland islands, but Teshima has enjoyed rice cultivation since ancient times. The terraced rice fields were left neglected over time but were brought back to their original beauty through the Terraced Rice Fields Project starting in 2010. 🔗
Visiting Information
Ferry Access from Uno Port (Okayama Prefecture)
Primary Route - Shodoshima Ferry:
Car ferries operate between Uno Port and Teshima approximately every 2-4 hours, making stops at both Ieura Port and Karato Port. 🔗
Ieura Port (main port):
- Travel time: 40 minutes from Uno Port
- Foot passenger fare: ¥780 per person
- Car transport: ~¥5,500 for regular-sized car + driver
- Frequency: Every 2-4 hours 🔗
Karato Port:
- Travel time: 60 minutes from Uno Port (via Ieura)
- Foot passenger fare: ¥1,050 per person
- Car transport: ~¥6,500 for regular-sized car + driver
- Frequency: Same schedule as Ieura-bound ferries
IMPORTANT FERRY NOTES:
- Reservations NOT possible for most ferry services - tickets sold 30 minutes before departure on first-come, first-served basis 🔗
- Culture Day (November 3) is a national holiday - ferries WILL operate but expect higher demand
- During peak periods, 8:40 AM boat (80-90 passenger capacity) may leave passengers behind
- Ferry schedules align with Teshima Art Museum hours
- High-speed boats operate daily except Tuesdays during March-November period
Parking at Uno Port: Multiple travelers confirm parking available at Uno Port for day trips. Contact Uno Port Inn (across from ferry terminal, English-speaking staff) for secure parking information. Leaving car at port is common practice for island visitors. 🔗
Transportation on Teshima Island
Rental Bicycles (RECOMMENDED):
- Available at both Ieura Port and Karato Port upon arrival
- Electric bicycles strongly recommended due to steep island roads
- Cost: ¥1,000 for first 4 hours, ~¥1,500 for full day
- LIMITED AVAILABILITY - rent immediately upon arrival or reserve in advance
- Island circuit roughly 12 km, about 1.5 hours by bicycle 🔗
Bus Service:
- Two lines connect Ieura Port to other villages
- Line 1: Ieura ⇄ Karato via Teshima Art Museum (every 1-2 hours)
- Line 2: Ieura ⇄ Ko Village (every 2-3 hours)
- Fare: ¥400 adults, ¥200 children
- Infrequent service requires careful timetable checking
- During Setouchi Triennale, additional buses operate
- Buses may be over capacity during busy periods 🔗
Walking: Villages are less than 1 hour apart on foot. Suitable for good walkers but consider steep terrain. 🔗
Museum Hours & Admission
Teshima Art Museum:
- Hours (November 3): 10:00 AM - 4:00 PM (last admission 3:30 PM) 🔗
- Closed: Tuesdays year-round (BUT Wednesday if Tuesday is national holiday)
- Special Holiday Rule: November 3 (Monday) is Culture Day - museum OPEN; Tuesday November 4 will be CLOSED 🔗
- Admission: ¥2,000 (¥1,800 if purchased online in advance)
- Tickets: Timed entry with advance reservation REQUIRED - book online
- Online ticketing: Available at benesse-artsite.jp/en/general-information.html or e-tix.jp/teshima/en/
- Important: Tickets may sell out, especially during Culture Day holiday - BOOK EARLY
- NOT included in Setouchi Triennale passport - requires separate ticket 🔗
Setouchi Triennale 2025: Autumn session October 3 - November 9, 2025. November 3 falls within final month of autumn session. Additional artworks and special programs during Triennale period.
What to See and Do
Teshima Art Museum
The Teshima Art Museum unites the creative visions of artist Rei Naito and architect Ryue Nishizawa, standing on a hill overlooking the Seto Inland Sea. 🔗 The building consists of a concrete shell devoid of pillars, covering a space about 40 by 60 meters with a maximum height of 4.3 meters. The droplet-shaped architecture resembles a water droplet at the moment of landing and is located in the corner of a rice terrace restored in collaboration with local residents. 🔗
Two oval openings in the shell allow wind, sounds, and light from the world outside into this organic space where nature and architecture intimately interconnect. 🔗 Inside, Rei Naito's permanent installation "Matrix" (2010) features water continuously trickling from tiny holes in the concrete floor. The water emerges from an underground spring, flows, and pools across the nearly imperceptibly sloped floor. The position and number of holes were carefully determined by Naito to express "the continuity between nature, which forms the basis of this world, and life on earth." 🔗
As light, wind, and the voices of birds—on occasions also rain, snow, and bugs—enter through the two openings and come in resonance with each other, an infinity of expressions are revealed as time passes. 🔗 The changing weather and lighting conditions throughout the day create a dynamic viewing experience, encouraging extended periods of observation and contemplation.
Visitor Experience: Visitors described the museum as "a very surprising experience" with a unique concept that "you will not come out indifferent." 🔗 However, some visitors found the strict rules overly enforced.
Teshima Yokoo House
A collaboration between artist Tadanori Yokoo and architect Yuko Nagayama, created by renovating an old private house in Teshima Island's Ieura District. 🔗 The house features 11 two-dimensional works exploring "life and death" themes. Architect Yuko Nagayama integrated a pictorial element through the use of red glass—a color predominant in Yokoo's work that symbolizes blood and life. 🔗
Les Archives du Coeur
By Christian Boltanski, this permanent installation houses recordings of heartbeats from people throughout the world, which Boltanski has been recording since 2008. 🔗 The installation is divided into three rooms: Heart Room, Recording Room (visitors may record their own heartbeats), and Listening Room.
Halfway up Mt. Danyama, countless wind chimes are installed in a forest. On strips of transparent material hanging from each bell are names of loved ones written by past visitors, with the sound summoning up the mystery of the soul and paying homage to memory. 🔗
Terraced Rice Fields & Agricultural Landscape
The restored terraced rice fields in the Karato district spread over slopes facing the sea, creating one of Teshima's most distinctive features. 🔗 The village of Karato-oka developed around the sacred spring and presents a view of an earlier time now rarely seen in Japan. A circular road connects the island's three small fishing villages, where old townscapes remain from when Teshima flourished through trade within the Seto Inland Sea.
Practical Visiting Tips
Culture Day Considerations (November 3, 2025)
Ferry Operations: Ferries operate on Culture Day (confirmed). Expect significantly higher visitor numbers throughout the island.
Museum Access: Teshima Art Museum OPEN Monday November 3 (Culture Day). CLOSED Tuesday November 4 (standard Tuesday closure).
Advance Booking: Timed-entry tickets ESSENTIAL for Culture Day visit - book as early as possible to secure preferred time slot. 🔗
Bicycle Rental: Limited bikes available - reserve in advance or arrive on first ferry to guarantee availability.
Restaurant Reservations: Limited dining options require advance reservations, especially on holidays. 🔗
Ferry & Access Strategy
Culture Day Considerations:
- Arrive at Uno Port 45-60 minutes before first ferry to secure boarding on potentially crowded 8:40 AM departure
- Alternative: Take 10:00-11:00 AM ferry if concerned about crowds, but accept shorter island time
- No advance ferry reservations possible - tickets sold 30 minutes before departure, first-come basis
- Consider foot passenger only: Leaving car at Uno Port parking eliminates ferry vehicle transport costs (saves ~¥5,500) and allows more flexible ferry capacity
Ferry Operator Contact: Shodoshima Teshima Ferry: shodoshima-ferry.co.jp/lang/en.html
Teshima Art Museum Etiquette (STRICT RULES)
Mandatory Requirements:
- Remove shoes before entering art space - shoes strictly prohibited inside
- Wear intact socks - perforated socks not recommended as you'll be walking on concrete floor
- Complete silence - speaking, whispering prohibited inside museum
- No photography, video, or sketches - strictly enforced
- No smartphone use - all devices must be put away
- Timed entry - must wait outside until booked time slot
Visitor Mindset: Rules are sternly enforced by staff. Some visitors find rules overly restrictive; others appreciate they enhance contemplative atmosphere. Approach with expectation of meditative, silent experience. Plan to spend 30-60 minutes inside to fully appreciate the subtle changes in light, water movement, and natural sounds.
Island Transportation Recommendations
- Reserve electric bicycle in advance if possible
- Alternative: Arrive on first ferry and go DIRECTLY to rental office before museum visit
- Cost consideration: ¥1,500 full-day rental allows flexible exploration versus ¥400/ride bus fare × multiple trips
- Cycling difficulty: Steep roads make electric bicycles essential for most visitors
- Full island circuit: 12 km takes ~1.5 hours by bicycle, allows spontaneous stops
Dining & Facilities
- Umi no Restaurant: Reservations required for dinner, walk-ins possible for lunch depending on availability 🔗
- Shima Kitchen: Artwork/restaurant in Karato village
- Advance reservations ESSENTIAL for Culture Day holiday dining
- Pack snacks/drinks: Convenience stores and food options limited
- Teshima Art Museum cafe: Accessible only after museum visit during timed entry window
Best Photo Spots
Architecture:
- Teshima Art Museum exterior from rice terrace approach path (photography allowed outside only)
- Droplet-shaped museum from terraced rice fields with sea backdrop
- Interior photography PROHIBITED
Landscapes:
- Terraced rice fields in Karato district with Seto Inland Sea views
- Fishing villages and old townscapes along circular road
- Mt. Danyama wind chimes installation (check photography rules)
Timing:
- Morning light (9:00-11:00 AM) for east-facing rice terraces
- Late afternoon (3:00-5:00 PM) for golden hour architectural photography
- Overcast conditions create moody atmospheric shots
Route Integration & Feasibility
Route Context: Beppu to Osaka Ferry Route
Teshima Island represents a significant detour from the main Sanyo Expressway coastal route. The detour requires:
Route Modification:
- Exit Sanyo Expressway at Okayama area
- Travel to Uno Port (45 minutes from Okayama Station by train, or direct driving)
- Ferry crossing to Teshima (40-60 minutes)
- Island exploration time (minimum 5-6 hours for meaningful visit)
- Return ferry to Uno Port
- Resume Sanyo Expressway route toward Osaka
Total Detour Time: 8-10 hours minimum (including ferry crossings and island exploration)
Feasibility within 2-Day Ferry Route Window:
- Tight but possible if dedicating full day to Teshima detour
- Conflicts with other route attractions in Sanyo coast area
- Consider: Is contemplative art island experience more valuable than coastal route attractions?
Comparison with Naoshima
Choose Teshima if:
- Seeking quieter, more contemplative art experience
- Drawn to meditative, single-artwork museum experience
- Prefer rural agricultural landscape setting
- Want to avoid crowds (relatively)
- Have 5-6 hours for focused island visit
Choose Naoshima if:
- Want to see multiple major museums/installations in one day
- Prefer diverse art collection (Monet, Turrell, etc.)
- Seeking more tourism infrastructure and dining options
- Limited time but want comprehensive art island experience
- Can visit Tuesday (when Teshima Art Museum closed)
Time Allocation Comparison:
- Teshima: 6 hours sufficient for Teshima Art Museum + 2-3 other sites + island cycling
- Naoshima: 4-6 hours minimum for main museums, full day preferred for complete experience
- Both islands in one day: Exhausting but possible for time-pressed visitors
Location: View on Google Maps
Source: attractions/beppu-to-osaka-ferry-route/teshima-island.md