Tomo-no-ura

About

The historic harbor of Tomo-no-ura with traditional buildings and coastal views. Source: Wikimedia Commons

Tomo-no-ura (鞆の浦) is a historic port town in Fukuyama City, Hiroshima Prefecture, that served as the primary inspiration for Studio Ghibli's 2008 film "Ponyo on the Cliff by the Sea." This charming fishing village, designated as a National Preservation District for Groups of Historic Buildings (2017), preserves one of Japan's most authentic Edo-period maritime townscapes. The town's strategic location at the meeting point of eastward and westward tidal currents in the Seto Inland Sea made it an essential "waiting-for-the-tide" port during the Edo period (1603-1868), where ships would anchor to wait for favorable tides before continuing their journey. 🔗

Tomo-no-ura represents a rare surviving example of an Edo-period "shiomachi-no-minato" (waiting-for-the-tide port), where the town's circular harbor provided safe anchorage for vessels navigating the complex tidal currents of the Seto Inland Sea. During the height of its prosperity in the Edo period, the port hosted the famous kitamae-bune cargo ships traveling between Osaka and Hokkaido, transforming the town into a bustling center of commerce, information exchange, and cultural interaction. 🔗

The town gained international recognition when director Hayao Miyazaki stayed here for two months in 2004-2005, living in a house overlooking the harbor while developing the visual world of "Ponyo." He personally contributed to the restoration of a local historic building, the Onfunayado Iroha, demonstrating his deep connection to the town's preservation. 🔗

The 8.6-hectare preservation district protects a dense concentration of traditional structures, including the iconic Joyato Lighthouse (built 1859), the Ota Family Residence with its homeishu medicinal liquor storehouses, and Fukuzen-ji Temple's Taichoro pavilion, which offers views once proclaimed by Korean envoys as "the most beautiful scenery in East Asia." 🔗

Cultural & Historical Significance

Edo Period Maritime Heritage

Tomo-no-ura's strategic location at the convergence of tidal currents made it an indispensable waypoint for maritime trade during the Edo period. The circular harbor provided safe anchorage for vessels waiting for favorable tides to continue their journey through the Seto Inland Sea. This "waiting-for-the-tide" function transformed the town into a bustling commercial hub where kitamae-bune cargo ships traveling between Osaka and Hokkaido would rest, creating a vibrant center for commerce, information exchange, and cultural interaction. 🔗

Studio Ghibli's Ponyo Connection

Director Hayao Miyazaki's two-month residence in Tomo-no-ura during 2004-2005 fundamentally shaped the visual world of "Ponyo on the Cliff by the Sea." Living in a house overlooking the harbor, Miyazaki absorbed the town's distinctive bay shape, winding alleys lined with rustic wooden-facade houses, and waterfront character, all of which appear throughout the 2008 animated film. His personal contribution to restoring the historic Onfunayado Iroha building demonstrates his deep connection to the town's preservation efforts. 🔗

Architectural Preservation

Designated as a National Preservation District for Groups of Historic Buildings in 2017, the 8.6-hectare area protects a remarkable concentration of Edo-period port infrastructure. The preservation includes the Joyato Lighthouse (1859)—the largest stone lighthouse from the Edo period standing 11 meters tall—stone gangi staircases leading to the water, traditional hato breakwaters, and the funabansho (old coast guard station). Narrow machiya townhouses with lattice windows, historic port facilities, and the waterfront district create an authentic atmosphere of maritime heritage rarely found in modern Japan. 🔗

Visiting Information

Access:

• From Sanyo Expressway (Fukuyama Higashi IC): 35-40 minutes via Route 182 south 🔗
• From Onomichi: 17 miles (27 km), approximately 29 minutes drive 🔗
• Parking available within town (narrow streets, weekend parking may require patience)

Hours:

• Town accessible 24/7
• Fukuzen-ji Temple (Taichoro Pavilion): 8:00 AM - 5:00 PM daily 🔗
• Ota Residence: 10:00 AM - 5:00 PM, closed Tuesdays 🔗
• Io-ji Temple: Daylight hours (no specific hours published)

Route Context: 40-minute detour each way from Sanyo Expressway near Fukuyama; can be combined with Onomichi exploration

Seasonal Considerations: November offers mild autumn weather (17-18°C), reduced crowds compared to summer, excellent visibility for temple panoramas, and pleasant conditions for harbor exploration

The Experience

Fukuzen-ji Temple & Taichoro Pavilion

The temple's reception hall, built around 1690 for foreign diplomats, offers the town's most celebrated view across the bay to Benten-jima Island with its small pagoda and larger Sensui-jima Island beyond. Korean envoy Lee Bang Eun proclaimed this vista "the most beautiful scenery in East Asia" in 1711. The tatami-matted viewing room (¥200 admission) provides a serene space to contemplate the same panoramic Seto Inland Sea landscape that has inspired poets and artists for centuries. 🔗

Io-ji Temple

Founded by Kukai (Kobo Daishi) in 826, this Shingon Buddhist temple occupies a hillside location with spectacular views of Tomonoura and the Seto Inland Sea archipelago. A 15-minute ascent up the hill behind the main temple building leads to the Taishiden hall, offering even more expansive vistas. The nostalgic stone and earthen walls with tiled roofs, combined with the elevated perspective of the bay, make this an essential stop for photography and panoramic views. 🔗

Historic Harbor District & Joyato Lighthouse

The waterfront area preserves remarkable Edo-period port infrastructure, including stone gangi staircases leading to the water, traditional hato breakwaters, and the funabansho (old coast guard station). The Joyato Lighthouse, standing 11 meters tall, is the largest stone lighthouse from the Edo period and serves as the town's iconic symbol. Built in 1859, it continues to guide vessels in and out of the circular harbor. The bayfront is dotted with small fishing boats demonstrating the port's continuing maritime relevance. 🔗

Ota Family Residence

This Important Cultural Property (designated 1991) showcases the wealth of Edo-period merchant families who held a monopoly on homeishu production—a medicinal liquor containing 16 herbs that became a famous local product. Guided tours (¥500, included in admission) lead through multiple tatami mat rooms, tea rooms, and homeishu storehouses, offering tangible connections to the elegant lifestyle of the merchant class. 🔗

Ponyo Filming Locations

Scattered throughout the town are locations that inspired "Ponyo," including a miniature shrine with vermillion torii gate and small sandy cove past the harbor breakwater—the spot where Sosuke first meets Ponyo in the film. The winding alleys lined with rustic wooden-facade houses, the distinctive bay shape, and waterfront views all appear in the animated masterpiece. Walking maps showing Ponyo-related spots available from tourist information center. 🔗

Practical Visiting Tips

Photography & Viewing Spots

• Fukuzen-ji Taichoro: Arrive early morning (8:00 AM opening) for soft light on the bay and fewer visitors; wide-angle lens recommended for panoramic shots through pavilion frame
• Io-ji Temple Taishiden: Climb 15 minutes uphill for expansive aerial views; late afternoon light illuminates harbor below
• Joyato Lighthouse waterfront: Classic harbor composition with lighthouse, traditional buildings, and fishing boats; morning light optimal
• Hidden sandy cove: Ponyo filming location beyond harbor breakwater with vermillion torii gate; atmospheric coastal photography
• Narrow alleyways: Rustic wooden facades and traditional townhouse architecture; overcast conditions reduce harsh shadows 🔗

Crowd Avoidance Strategies

• Visit Fukuzen-ji Temple immediately when it opens at 8:00 AM for quietest experience
• November 3 (Culture Day) brings elevated domestic tourism but Tomo-no-ura remains relatively uncrowded compared to major destinations
• Lunch period (12:00-1:00 PM) sees fewer temple visitors
• Sensuijima Island ferry (¥240 round trip, 5 minutes) provides escape from any waterfront crowds
• Walking residential alleys offers peaceful alternative to main tourist spots

Cultural Etiquette

• Remove shoes when entering temples and Ota Residence
• Respectful quiet at Fukuzen-ji Taichoro viewing pavilion (contemplative space)
• Photography permitted at most locations but respect "no photo" signs if present
• Traditional port town has working fishing operations; be mindful of local daily life
• Almost only Japanese spoken; Google Translate helpful but locals very welcoming
• Respect narrow alleyways by walking single file and not blocking doorways 🔗

Route Integration

• Total time commitment: 80 minutes driving detour (40 min each way) + 3-4 hours exploration = 4-5 hours minimum
• Can serve as morning cultural stop before continuing to Onomichi (29 minutes)
• Alternatively, afternoon detour after Onomichi exploration
• Full-day option combines Tomo-no-ura morning with Onomichi afternoon/evening
• Best suited for travelers with flexible schedules and strong interest in Studio Ghibli, Edo-period heritage, or coastal scenery

Budget Considerations

• Town walking and harbor exploration: Free
• Fukuzen-ji Temple admission: ¥200
• Ota Residence: ¥500 (includes guided tour)
• Tomo History and Folklore Museum: ¥150
• Sensuijima Island ferry: ¥240 round trip
• Total admission costs for major sites: approximately ¥800-1,000
• Parking: Free to moderate fees depending on lot choice
• Half-day visit economically accomplished with selective site visits

Location: View on Google Maps

Source: attractions/beppu-to-osaka-ferry-route/tomo-no-ura.md