About
Unagi kabayaki served over rice (unadon) - the traditional preparation showcasing grilled eel glazed with sweet soy-based sauce. Image from Wikimedia Commons.
Mishima serves as the northern gateway to the Izu Peninsula and is renowned as a "City of Water" where pristine Mount Fuji spring water surfaces throughout the urban landscape. This abundant crystal-clear spring water - melted snow from Mt. Fuji naturally filtered through layers of volcanic lava over many years - has created a unique culinary tradition where freshwater eel (unagi) is transformed into one of Japan's most celebrated regional delicacies. π
Mishima is renowned as a "battleground" area in Shizuoka Prefecture where many famous eel restaurants compete, all utilizing the city's abundant Mt. Fuji spring water to create exceptionally clean-tasting, tender eel free from fishy odors. π
November 7, 2025 is an excellent time to experience Mishima unagi. November to December is actually the peak season for wild eel flavor, contrary to the popular misconception that summer is best. Additionally, mid-November offers crisp views of Mt. Fuji and autumn foliage. π
Cultural & Historical Significance
The Mishima Spring Water Secret
The secret lies in Mishima's identity as the "City of Water" - abundant crystal-clear spring water surfaces throughout the city, having originated as melted snow from Mt. Fuji that has been naturally filtered through layers of volcanic lava over many years. π
Before cooking, live eels are placed in tanks of this pristine spring water for three to five days in a process called "shime" (η· γ - tightening or firming up). This crucial step:
- Purges the eel of any muddy or fishy odors from its natural habitat
- Causes it to shed excess fat through exposure to cold, clean water
- Results in firmer, cleaner-tasting flesh that allows the natural richness of the eel to shine through
High-end restaurants like Sakuraya pump underground water from approximately 50 meters below the surface, exposing eels to this Mt. Fuji spring water for 2-3 days to achieve the signature "karumi" (lightness) that Mishima unagi is known for. π
Historical Context and Sacred Taboo
The historical connection between Mishima and unagi is deeply rooted in local culture and legend. For centuries, eels in Mishima's rivers were considered sacred messengers of the powerful Mishima Taisha Shrine, and eating them was believed to bring divine punishment. One legend tells of the second Tokugawa shogun, Hidetada, sentencing vassals to death for consuming eel in the area. This taboo began to break down around the Meiji Restoration (1868) when anti-shogunate samurai flouted the old rules without consequence. π
During the Edo Period (1603-1868), Mishima thrived as a post town on the Tokaido Road connecting Edo (Tokyo) and Kyoto. Travelers passing through contributed to the town's fame for unagi, and restaurants began to flourish. Today, establishments like Unagi Sakuraya, founded in 1856, have been serving this delicacy for over 160 years, maintaining traditional preparation methods. π
Kanto-Style Preparation
Mishima unagi is prepared in the Kanto (Tokyo) style - a multi-step process that creates tender, flavorful results:
- The eel is slit open along the back (a method said to avoid the samurai taboo of belly-slitting or seppuku)
- Skewered and grilled over high-quality charcoal like Binchotan to make the skin crispy
- Steamed to remove more fat and make the flesh incredibly soft and fluffy
- Repeatedly dipped in a secret sweet-and-savory soy-based sauce (tare) and grilled again
- The sauce caramelizes into a beautiful glaze with rich, deep flavor
High-end traditional restaurants continue to rely on grilling over charcoal and using tare recipes passed down and refined for generations. π
Visiting Information
Route Access from Tomei Expressway
From Osaka via Tomei/Shin-Tomei:
- Exit at Nagaizumi-Numazu IC
- Distance to Mishima city center: ~8 km
- Drive time: 15-20 minutes to central restaurants
- Parking: Available at most restaurants (Sakuraya has limited spaces) or use municipal lots near Mishima Station
Alternative Highway Exit:
- Numazu IC on Tomei Expressway
- Distance to Mishima: ~10 km
- Similar access time to city center
Route Context: Mishima is a natural stopping point for route travelers heading to Izu Peninsula. Located just off the Tomei/Shin-Tomei Expressway, it offers a cultural and culinary break before the final approach into Izu's mountainous interior.
Recommended Restaurants
Unagi Sakuraya (Most famous, founded 1856)
- Address: 13-2 HirokΕjichΕ, Mishima, Shizuoka 411-0856, Japan π
- Access: Short walk from Mishima-Hirokoji Station on the Izu-Hakone Railway; limited parking available
- Phone: +81 55-975-4520
- Website: http://www.sakura-ya.net/
- Hours: Monday-Friday: 11:00-14:30 (last order 14:00) / 16:30-20:00 (last order 19:30); Saturday-Sunday: 11:00-20:00 (last order 19:30) π
- Pricing: Β₯Β₯Β₯ range, minimum Β₯10,000 for two people recommended π
- Payment: Cash only - no credit cards accepted
- English Support: English menu available, some staff speak English π
- Reservations: Phone reservations strongly recommended; walk-ins face 2-2.5 hour waits on weekends/holidays
- Signature: Creates perfect "karumi" (lightness), avoiding overly sweet and fat-heavy preparation
Unagi Suminobo (Multiple locations, traditional establishment)
- Honcho Branch: 1-37 Honcho, Mishima (Ranked #2 of 398 restaurants in Mishima) π
- Mishima Taisha-mae Branch: Right at the doorstep of Mishima Taisha shrine, 7-minute walk from Mishima-Tamachi Station (Ranked #4 of 833 restaurants) π
- Website: http://www.suminobo.jp/
- Hours: 11:00-20:15 (last order); Closed Thursdays π
- Menu: Unagi sets with sashimi, chawanmushi (egg custard), also famous for eel shaomai dumplings π
- Preparation Style: Bold, flavorful sauce with perfect balance, crispy skin and tender fluffy meat
Unagi no Bando (Convenient station location)
- Address: One-minute walk from the south exit of JR Mishima Station, next to Rakujuen Station entrance π
- Note: Opened in 2018, reservations generally required through Tabelog
- Menu: Unaju (Sakura) priced at approximately Β₯4,200 π
- Specialty: High-grade domestic eels purified with Mt. Fuji water system
The Dining Experience
Arrival and Atmosphere
Traditional unagi restaurants in Mishima maintain quiet, refined atmospheres that reflect their long histories. Unagi Sakuraya, for instance, has been serving customers since 1856 from the same location near Mishima-Hirokoji Station. The restaurants often feature traditional Japanese architecture with tatami seating options (remember to remove shoes before stepping on the mats). π
Menu Options
- Unaju/Unadon: Kabayaki (grilled eel) over rice, served in a lacquer box (unaju) or bowl (unadon). This is the classic presentation
- Hitsumabushi: A Nagoya specialty also popular in Shizuoka, featuring a three-stage eating ritual
- Shirayaki: Simply grilled eel without sauce, lightly seasoned with salt and wasabi to appreciate the pure flavor
- Kimo-yaki: Grilled eel liver, often served as an appetizer
- Set meals: Include unagi with sashimi, chawanmushi (egg custard), miso soup, and pickles π
Dining Ritual
Each restaurant serves unagi freshly prepared to order, meaning there will be a 20-30 minute wait after ordering while your meal is grilled and assembled. This wait is part of the experience - the aroma of grilling eel permeating the restaurant builds anticipation. When your meal arrives, the eel should have crispy, caramelized skin and tender, fluffy interior meat, served over perfectly cooked rice that has absorbed some of the sweet-savory tare sauce. π
Practical Visiting Tips
Restaurant Selection Strategy for Route Travelers
For First-Time Visitors: Unagi Sakuraya offers the most traditional, historic experience with the longest pedigree (since 1856). Despite wait times, the quality and authenticity justify the experience. Arrive at opening (11:00 AM) or make phone reservations well in advance. π
For Convenience: Unagi no Bando is steps from JR Mishima Station, perfect if you're arriving by car and want easy parking access. Reservations through Tabelog recommended. π
For Cultural Context: Suminobo Taisha-mae Branch combines unagi dining with proximity to Mishima Taisha shrine, allowing you to understand the historical taboo and cultural significance before dining. π
Dining Etiquette and Best Practices
Before the Meal:
- Use the provided wet towel (oshibori) to clean hands
- Say "Itadakimasu" ("I gratefully receive") before beginning
- If seated on tatami, remove shoes and sit seiza (kneeling) or cross-legged as comfortable
Eating Techniques:
- Pick up the bowl/box with one hand while eating with chopsticks - this is proper form π
- For unaju/unadon, eat rice and eel together to balance flavors
- Apply sansho (Japanese mountain pepper) sparingly - it should enhance, not overpower
- Never rub chopsticks together (implies they're cheap quality)
- Rest chopsticks on the chopstick holder when not using them
After the Meal:
- Finish all food, including every grain of rice - wasting food violates Japanese etiquette π
- Say "Gochisosama deshita" ("Thank you for the feast")
- No tipping - the price is fixed
Money-Saving and Practical Tips
Budget Considerations:
- Lunch sets are typically Β₯500-1000 cheaper than dinner portions with similar quality
- Smaller portions (chiku/bamboo grade) cost less than premium portions (matsu/pine grade) but still showcase the quality
- Unagi no Bando offers good value at Β₯4,200 for unaju compared to Sakuraya's higher prices π
- Bring sufficient cash - many restaurants (especially Sakuraya) don't accept cards
Wait Time Management:
- Weekday lunches have shortest waits (30-45 minutes vs. 2+ hours on weekend/holiday peak)
- Making phone reservations at Sakuraya bypasses walk-in queues entirely
- If you encounter a long wait, explore nearby spring water sites (Genbe River is 5 minutes walk from Sakuraya)
Language Barriers:
- Sakuraya and major restaurants have English menus π
- Learn key phrases: "Unaju kudasai" (unaju please), "Oishii desu" (this is delicious)
- Point to menu items or photos if uncertain
Route Stop Strategy (November 7, 2025)
Driving Considerations:
- Detour Time: 15-20 minutes from Tomei Expressway
- Parking: Limited at Sakuraya; station-area municipal lots more reliable for car travelers
- Time Allocation:
- Quick lunch stop (1-1.5 hours): Arrive at opening, unagi lunch, continue journey
- Extended cultural stop (2-3 hours): Lunch + Mishima Taisha shrine + spring water sites
- Full experience (3-4 hours): Rakujuen Garden + lunch + cultural sites
Seasonal Advantages (November):
- November to December is peak season for wild eel flavor π
- Winter and autumn offer the crispest views of Mt. Fuji from Mishima, enhancing the connection to the spring water source
- Early November brings autumn colors, creating beautiful scenery around Mishima
- November is shoulder season, with fewer tourists than summer but still pleasant weather
Recommended Timing: For your November 7 route drive, consider:
- Lunch Stop: Arrive at Sakuraya by 11:00 AM opening to minimize wait times (Friday visit, moderate crowds expected)
- Pre-lunch exploration: Visit Mishima Taisha shrine first, then walk to Suminobo Taisha-mae Branch for lunch
- Combination itinerary: Pair unagi dining with visits to Mishima's spring water sites (Genbe River, Rakujuen Garden) to fully appreciate the water source
Additional Mishima Attractions
Within Walking Distance:
- Mishima Taisha Shrine: 7-minute walk from Suminobo Taisha-mae Branch - the shrine whose sacred eel messengers created the historical taboo π
- Genbe River (Genbe-gawa): 5-minute walk from Sakuraya - beautiful spring-fed river with crystal-clear Mt. Fuji water
- Rakujuen Garden: Traditional Japanese garden featuring spring water ponds and seasonal beauty
- Mishima Skywalk: Japan's longest suspension pedestrian bridge with Mt. Fuji views (10 minutes by car)
Route Integration
Position on Osaka to Izu Route: Mishima sits at the northern gateway to Izu Peninsula, just minutes from the Tomei/Shin-Tomei Expressway. It serves as a natural transition point between highway driving and the mountainous/coastal roads of Izu.
Strategic Value for Route Travelers:
- Cultural and culinary break after 4-5 hours of expressway driving
- Introduction to regional food traditions and Shizuoka Prefecture specialties
- Natural stopping point before entering Izu's winding mountain roads
- Opportunity to experience authentic local cuisine in a historic setting
Logical Grouping with Other Route Stops:
- Combines well with Gotemba Premium Outlets (30 minutes northeast) for shopping + dining combination
- Pairs with Atami (20 minutes southeast) for cultural sites + onsen experience
- Gateway to Shuzenji Onsen (40 minutes southwest) in central Izu
- Alternative lunch stop to Numazu (10 minutes west) with different seafood focus
Important Notes:
Reservations Essential: For Unagi Sakuraya especially, phone reservations are critical during November tourism season. Call several days in advance: +81 55-975-4520. English support is limited on phone, so consider having your accommodation assist with booking. π
Cash Requirements: Many traditional restaurants, including the most famous Sakuraya, accept only cash. Bring sufficient cash (minimum Β₯10,000 for two people) to avoid issues. π
Sustainability Consideration: Japanese eel (Anguilla japonica) is classified as endangered. The restaurants in Mishima work with eel farms that maintain sustainable practices, but visitors should be aware of conservation concerns. π
Wait Time Reality Check: Reviews consistently mention 2-2.5 hour waits at Sakuraya on weekends and holidays. Plan accordingly - either arrive at opening, make reservations, choose a weekday, or be prepared to explore nearby spring water sites during the wait. π
Source: attractions/osaka-to-izu-main-route/mishima-city.md