About
Japan Heritage site marking the historic Saba Kaido (Mackerel Road) in Obama, Fukui Prefecture - Source: Wikimedia Commons
Obama is a historic port town in Fukui Prefecture that served as the starting point of the legendary Saba Kaido (Mackerel Road), a network of routes developed around the eighth century to transport mackerel and other goods from the ancient province of Wakasa to Kyoto. 🔗 Over the years, Obama became a bustling castle town, and as maritime transport became more widespread around the end of the twelfth century, Obama's significance as a port town grew.
Since ancient times, the Saba Kaido was a thoroughfare by which goods, culture, and technology arrived in Nara and Kyoto from the Asian mainland, and where the refined culture of the capital made its way back to the port town of Obama. 🔗 This helped shape Obama's culture, which retains tangible influences from Kyoto to this day. Architectural styles originating in Kyoto are preserved in the old teahouses and geisha houses of the Obamanishigumi Preservation District, while Kyoto's Gion Festival is believed to have influenced Obama's Hoze Festival. 🔗
Cultural & Historical Significance
From about 738, the fame of Obama's quality seafood, specifically mackerel, had been escalating until it caught the attention of the Royal Court at Kyoto, who then bestowed the miketsukuni title on Obama making them Royal Purveyors of saba to the Royal Family. 🔗 In the Edo period, merchants began shipping large quantities of mackerel to Kyoto, and salted it in Obama to keep it fresh. 🔗
The freshly caught saba was prepared and packed first thing in the morning, then transported by foot up a steep mountain top to reach Kyoto the next morning. 🔗 This remarkable feat - delivering seafood from the Sea of Japan to the ancient capital while maintaining freshness - established Obama's legendary status in Japanese culinary history.
The town's designation as an Important Preservation District for Groups of Traditional Buildings protects iconic Japanese architecture from as early as the Meiji period (1868-1912), creating a living museum of port town culture that bridges mountain and coastal Japan. 🔗
Visiting Information
Access:
By Car (Primary Route Access):
- From Tsuruga: Take Route 27 to central Obama city 🔗
- From Kyoto: Take Route 367 and 303 to central Obama 🔗
- Beach area: 2 minutes from Obama-nishi Interchange on the Maizuru Wakasa Expressway 🔗
Hours:
- Town accessible 24/7
- Miketsukuni Wakasa Obama Food Culture Museum: 9:00 AM - 6:00 PM Thursday-Tuesday (5:00 PM in winter Dec-Feb); Closed Wednesdays, year-end/New Year holidays 🔗
Route Context: Quick access from Route 27 along Sea of Japan coast. Most temples equipped with parking lots. Hotels offer free parking. 🔗
Seasonal Considerations: Late October offers pleasant autumn temperatures (20-26°C) ideal for walking historic districts. 🔗 Comfortable clothing: long-sleeved shirts and light jackets. 🔗
The Experience
Sancho-machi Historic Tea House District
The Tea House street within Sanchomachi district, located near Obama Park, is the best preserved of all the old streets and is now a designated national heritage site deemed as an "important preservation district of historic buildings." 🔗 The historic entertainment district features Edo-era architecture and was once the port town's red-light district. Today, it's filled with cafes, shops, and houses. 🔗
The ancient center of trade in Obama reflects its intimate ties with the old capital, and alleyways still resemble some of Kyoto's ancient roads lined with latticed wooden buildings. 🔗 Sanchomachi is highly similar to the Gion area of Kyoto. Some of the old teahouses still retain their historic tradition as cafés, and their lights are lit to welcome passing visitors. 🔗
Walking Experience:
- From JR Obama Station: 20 minutes walk 🔗
- From Mermaid Beach: 10 minutes walk 🔗
- Walking through Sancho-machi: 15 minutes or less 🔗
Miketsukuni Wakasa Obama Food Culture Museum
Features:
- Three floors of exhibits on Obama's food culture and Saba Kaido heritage
- Hands-on cooking classes and traditional craft workshops (advance reservations required)
- Free admission 🔗
Temple Heritage
Myotsu-ji Temple:
- Founded by Sakanoue no Tamuramaro, a shogun from the Heian Period
- National Treasures: Main hall (1258) and three-story pagoda (1270) - Fukui's only National Treasures 🔗
- Access: 10 minutes by taxi from Obama Station 🔗
- Parking available on-site
Mantoku-ji Temple:
- Japanese garden designated as National Place of Scenic Beauty
- Autumn highlight: Dry landscape garden (one of Japan's top 100 autumn leaves destinations) 🔗
Mackerel Preservation Culture
Heshiko - Obama's signature preserved mackerel dish made from fermented mackerel pickled in rice bran. The flavor is distinctive—very salty and reminiscent of anchovies, flavorful and serves as an excellent garnish for rice. 🔗
Where to Experience:
Hama-no-Shiki (Hamanoshiki):
- Overlooking Wakasa Bay with Obama City's best seafood cuisine
- Serves "Obama Brand Kaisendon" with seven types of raw seafood
- Heshiko sashimi on menu 🔗
Shunsai Kitchen YOSHINOBU:
- Izakaya with ingredients from Obama and sake from all over Japan
- Heshiko served thinly sliced with daikon radish 🔗
Sushimasa:
- Established 1960, focuses on fresh Wakasa Bay seafood
- Specialty: Grilled mackerel sushi, mackerel sushi, small sea bream sparrow sushi 🔗
Practical Visiting Tips
For Driving Visitors:
- A bike is one of the best ways to explore central Obama - everything is quite close together 🔗
- Most temples equipped with parking lots 🔗
- Hotels offer free parking 🔗
Efficient Short Stop Strategy:
- Park near Sancho-machi historic district (central Obama)
- 15-minute walk through preserved tea house street
- Visit Miketsukuni Wakasa Obama Food Culture Museum (free admission)
- Photo stops at traditional architecture and Saba Kaido markers
- Optional: Quick heshiko tasting at local restaurant
Route Integration:
- Represents cultural bridge between Takayama's mountain heritage and Kinosaki's coastal onsen culture
- Saba Kaido demonstrates historical trade routes linking sea to capital
- Obama's preserved architecture and mackerel culture provide authentic fishing village experience with royal heritage distinction
- Pairs well with Wakasa Fisherman's Wharf for comprehensive Obama seafood culture
Best Photo Spots:
- Sancho-machi tea house street with latticed wooden buildings
- Saba Kaido heritage markers and museum plaque
- Traditional architecture in Obamanishigumi Preservation District
- Coastal views from Route 27 approaching town
Cultural Etiquette:
- At Jingu-ji Temple: No photography of worship objects or inner sanctum 🔗
- Respect preserved historic buildings - many still residential
- Traditional tea houses operating as cafes welcome visitors
What to Wear:
- Long-sleeved shirts and light jackets for October weather 🔗
- Comfortable walking shoes for historic district exploration
Location: View on Google Maps
Source: attractions/takayama-to-kinosaki-coastal-route/obama-historic-port-town.md